Ford Focus Forum banner
21 - 40 of 397 Posts
I wouldn't run without some sort of restriction like the thermostat. I've had problems in the past cooling cars after removing the thermostat.
 
Nick,
Raspekt = respect?


Thx! If I go without a t-stat would you suggest running some type of coolant flow restrictor disc to slow the coolant flow somewhat?
what for?
you can, i'd just put an inline sender housing after the outlet as that will restrict flow as well but you do not really need to.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Bryan, you might notice who's old manifold that its is. :)


Dan, it's nice to see that you are starting on the build finally. I got the powerworks all up and running and found out that my o2 sensor was bad. :(

Oh as far as your boost controller. Look into the E-boost2 controller. It is very nice in its programmable to your needs. There are a few others they offer too. These were what i was looking into.

[URL]http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=42[/URL]
Steven, Glad to know the PWSC is working well for you. I'm stoked to get this turbo kit up and going but I need to wait for my tax refund and bonus from work before purchasing any more parts and dropping the block off at the machine shop. Until then I'm just mocking up and making a list of everything I'll need. I'll check out the E-boost2, thx.

Too much coin for me, plus it doesn't move the coolant hose any farther away from the manifold tube. I've been paying close attention to "Tousley Steve's" t-stat housing thread. Seems that he has found a better one piece unit from the Contour.

I wouldn't run without some sort of restriction like the thermostat. I've had problems in the past cooling cars after removing the thermostat.
I agree and was looking at the following. Now the question is which size restrictor to use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-63440/
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
what for?
you can, i'd just put an inline sender housing after the outlet as that will restrict flow as well but you do not really need to.
I've always heard that if the coolant flows too quickly it doesn't have time to soak up the heat and dissipate it from the engine. I did a little Googling and came across the following info from Stewart that goes along with what you're proposing.

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm
 
Thermostats (or at least some restriction like a properly sized washer) is necessary to maintain a higher pressure inside the engine, and slow down the flow for increased heat transfer efficiency. Cooling ability is decreased when the tstat is removed.

Also, unless you never plan on driving in cold weather, I strongly suggest leaving a thermostat in. Stable coolant temps help fuel mileage, reliability, etc.
 
Seeing that this is a race car, I'm sure he only races it in season :thumbup:
 
i agree to keeping the t-stat. u can have problems if u remov like said above. if it doesnt have time to stay in the rad it wont lose the heat and will overheat the motor.
 
Dan, are you able to run a intercooler spray kit in the class you run in? If so, look into it cause it could help out a little bit.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Dan, are you able to run a intercooler spray kit in the class you run in? If so, look into it cause it could help out a little bit.
With the exception of standard safety equipment/rules and having to run DOT-approved r-comp tires, my class is virtually unlimited. Since an intercooler sprayer has the opportunity to drop fluid on the track that might be an exception to the 'unlimited' rule. However, I have a Snow WMI kit that I'm planning on running for lower IATs. WMI should do equally as well, if not better, than an intercooler sprayer.

Speaking of intercoolers..... This past Saturday I found a Garrett 400hp intercooler on Craigslist, so I took a short drive and picked that puppy up. It was BRAND NEW and nearly half the cost of retail. That should help! :thumbup:
 
Seeing that this is a race car, I'm sure he only races it in season :thumbup:
Where I'm from, the 'season' is from February through December, with several of those days in the teens and twenties :thumbup:


And you could spray an intercooler with C02, which would not leak fluids on the track.
 
nice build u got goin here bro, but i got a question..

BY - Billet timing belt pulley from Gold Coast

U mean the guide/idler pulley correct?
 
i agree to keeping the t-stat. u can have problems if u remov like said above. if it doesnt have time to stay in the rad it wont lose the heat and will overheat the motor.
once a Tstat is open, the WP is pretty much flowing coolant as fast as the engine will push it. removing a T-stat doesn't make a huge difference in the heat transfer in the rad only the heat absorption inside the block and head. ultimately you have built in restrictions in the system in the forms of the inlet and outlet on the block/head and of course the rad. adding in a restrictor somewhere can maked a difference.

the easiest thing to do is just remove it and see.
most race cars we run with up here have no Tstats and do not have issues with overheating due to lack of time in the engine or block
 
Those should be nice pistons and rods for the combination you're running. Both companies make quality components.

On the thermostat I'd probably run one if it were myself but before deciding what's best for your car you may want to consider the type and length of racing you'll be doing. Without a t-stat the car will probably take quite a bit longer to warm up which might not be a problem if you're doing some extended race intervals and can idle the car for extended periods at startup, but if the engine can't get up to temp quickly before racing it could accelerate wear, cause elevated oil pressure, etc. Also consider the engine management being used and how it will affect tuning if the temps run low.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
On the t-stat subject..... My races are anywhere fron 20-45 minutes in length, so keeping heat in the engine isn't a problem at all. I also have the ability to let the car warm up sufficiently while on the false grid.

I dunno, I'm still on the fence about this one, as I see pros & cons in both directions. :dunno:
 
You could leave it and just see how it works for you. Get a nice gauge with an alarm and a peak hold if you don't already have one.
 
^^^^^^^ simplest way

the main reason i'd remove it is as a fail safe. i have seen cars run hot at the track and the tstats fail the race, cage breaks, snaps closed, then restricts flow, the car overheats and takes out the motor and obviously the car out of the race!
i know a few guys who have had leaking problems without a tstat and just cut out the guts but left the disc with the whole in the center and the seal around it in place to regulate coolant flow just like the tstat would.

as far as "heat up" goes.... it takes maybe one lap to get a car to 100% operating temp so that's no an issue.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I picked up a chunk of 6061-T6 aluminum and after an hour or so in the garage made up a t-stat housing spacer. Now there's plenty of room between the t-stat/hose and the manifold pipe. It was probably ok as it was, but I'm anal.

The standard t-stat o-ring seals against the spacer and I've cut a custom gasket out of some gasket material stock to seal between the spacer and block.

Image
 
Nice work. Now for extra insurance may I interest you in the Contour T-stat housing. I got it and it looks much sturdier than the Focus unit. Does not have a bottom piece molded on like the Focus one. It's a straight swap except you just need an 1/8" plug for the bottom port :thumbup:
 
21 - 40 of 397 Posts