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If the blower has a decent amount of miles on it, send it to Stiegemeier to get rebuilt and ported

they rebuild procharger blowers cayse?
 
I think there are some basic questions not being asked here, first of all. How many miles are on your car, and how many miles on the JRSC? What plugs are you using and what gap did you set? When were the fuel filter and plug wires last replaced?

Here's what I would do: find the BBK and install it, and replace the stock throttlebody with a 67mm. If you can't find a complete BBK, you'll need 42lb injectors, the upgraded MAF, a 3.1" blower pulley and a 106.375" belt (Gates 25-061058-HD will work great, from Napa). Some might say to use 50lb injectors, which isn't a bad idea either. Be sure to replace both idlers and the tensioner for the belt. You'll need to remove the power card piece of garbage and get dyno tuned.

Another option is simply to get rid of the power card and get dyno tuned. That by itself will make a world of difference, but I would do the BBK mods first.

If you have money to burn, install a 25-shot. General rule-of-thumb is that a 25-shot on a roots blower can yield up to +50hp. I don't know what's involved in tuning with nitrous (since it's not running all the time), but dyno tune again.

Still got moneys? Get an adjustable exhaust cam gear. Dyno tune.

If the blower has a decent amount of miles on it, send it to Stiegemeier to get rebuilt and ported. Dyno tune. :D

Want to be an idiot like me? Get the head ported and try to attempt a valve clearance adjustment job. Prepare to have another car to drive. :lol:
I think its fairly obvious he doesnt know what he has. This should be resolved when you reinstall the blower assembly. *easy BBK spotting technique: if you have a blue pulley on ur charger snout, you have a BBK*

If you wind up having a base kit I would second cayse's opinion about upgrading to a BBK and chucking the lil blk box BEFORE a dyno tune. Couple notes tho...

1.) Stick with the 42's unless you're POSITIVE you'll be spraying. Larger injectors make it a lot more difficult to get a decent low end. And since you're in texas, it'll make it harder to get a good tune for the SVTF so anything to help your tuner would make your life easier.

2.) Get a QUALITY wideband AFR Gauge to see changes that may indicate failure.

3.) Do an IAT Sensor Relocation before you get tuned to get a more accurate/safe tune based on the air temps as they enter your cylinder. You'll lose power here, but you'll be safeguarding your engine so you have minimal downtime should a particularly hot day decide to detonate ur engine to death.

4.) Get 67mm tb and port match it to the entrance of the blower

5.) The nitrous and the exhast cam
*If you go with a 67mm tb make sure to check if the inside diameter of your MAF and SRI is > 2.6". If not, get a larger replacement to reduce restriction*

The nitrous, exhast cam gear, and headwork should be the last thing on your mind at this point in time.
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
I have an Exhaust Cam already. Dont have the black box, and I know I don't have the BBK cause I'm only getting around 5psi of boost. Don't have the power card either. I'm going to post some pics of my engine bay.

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Discussion starter · #45 ·
The top pic should show you the previous owners workmanship, I mean a screw to plug a vacuum line, just wow. Dont even get me started on the TB and TB spacer, or the SRI.
 
I think its fairly obvious he doesnt know what he has. This should be resolved when you reinstall the blower assembly. *easy BBK spotting technique: if you have a blue pulley on ur charger snout, you have a BBK* I believe some BBK JRSCs came with black pulleys as well, if it was a complete JRSC+BBK package instead of two seperate packages. That's the rumor I've heard, anyway.

If you wind up having a base kit I would second cayse's opinion about upgrading to a BBK and chucking the lil blk box BEFORE a dyno tune. Couple notes tho...

1.) Stick with the 42's unless you're POSITIVE you'll be spraying. Larger injectors make it a lot more difficult to get a decent low end. And since you're in texas, it'll make it harder to get a good tune for the SVTF so anything to help your tuner would make your life easier.
Are you sure about this? I've spoken to a couple of tuners who said this isn't a problem.

2.) Get a QUALITY wideband AFR Gauge to see changes that may indicate failure. Definitely, just be aware that if you don't have a cat-delete where you could use the rear bung for the wideband sensor, you will need to have a bung welded into your cat-pipe or bottom of the header.

3.) Do an IAT Sensor Relocation before you get tuned to get a more accurate/safe tune based on the air temps as they enter your cylinder. You'll lose power here, but you'll be safeguarding your engine so you have minimal downtime should a particularly hot day decide to detonate ur engine to death. Definitely! Forgot to mention that one.

4.) Get 67mm tb and port match it to the entrance of the blower If you're sending the blower to Stiegemeier, they can a port job as well for an additional cost, which includes the tb-adapter, blower case opening and the manifold runners/ports.

5.) *If you go with a 67mm tb make sure to check if the inside diameter of your MAF and SRI is > 2.6". If not, get a larger replacement to reduce restriction* A larger MAF housing is going to require re-tuning, but on the plus side, you could keep the stock MAF.

The nitrous, exhast cam gear, and headwork should be the last thing on your mind at this point in time. I think the exhaust cam gear should be something to do at the same time as the timing belt, which will need to be done soon anyway.
Comments above. :)
 
The top pic should show you the previous owners workmanship, I mean a screw to plug a vacuum line, just wow. Dont even get me started on the TB and TB spacer, or the SRI.
These aren't terrible things... lots of people plug vacuum lines with a bolt. There's nothing wrong with the throttlebody as far as I can tell, and the "spacer" is actually an adapter to route air to the idle air control valve. The SRI might've been pieced together by the previous owner, but it was done well enough.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
They may not be terrible, but if you look closely to where the Throttle Cable connects to the TB, you can see a spot welding job that has left some play, not alot, but some. So the spacer is a good thing that should be kept? The SRI was definitely pieced together.
 
Well if the tb adapter has the iac then the SRI should only be a tube, which leaves you with a TON of options for your heatshield or perhaps even a full on 3" intake assembly. Could be a good thing.
 
These cars aren't exactly drag kings, so even if they want to rev at you at a stop light let them. You'll get them when the first of many corners come. I say you forget the 300HP thing and build your car for more incredible handling. LSD, Coil Overs, Strut tower bar, Carbon Fiber hatch/hood/fenders, Light weight battery, but turbo's for these cars go a long way so I'd sell the JRSC and pick up the xios kit. Your car will become fun like it never has been before :hump:

Just my biased opinion though :D
 
KK seen the pix. Get that JRSC painted blk again. the coolest thing about it is that it looks factory!!!

Do you still have the factory svt snorkle where its supposed to be? Its still a good source of cool air for the SRI.

Also with all that stuff directly laying on the charger i think you should generally relocate/reroute most of that stuff so the heat doesnt cause it to fail. I know that my cars performance nose dived when it had a relatively small vac leak.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
KK seen the pix. Get that JRSC painted blk again. the coolest thing about it is that it looks factory!!!

Do you still have the factory svt snorkle where its supposed to be? Its still a good source of cool air for the SRI.

Also with all that stuff directly laying on the charger i think you should generally relocate/reroute most of that stuff so the heat doesnt cause it to fail. I know that my cars performance nose dived when it had a relatively small vac leak.
I don't have the snorkel. I would love to relocate and reroute a lot of stuff under that hood, to me it kinda looks unorganized, if you get what I'm saying.
 
KK seen the pix. Get that JRSC painted blk again. the coolest thing about it is that it looks factory!!!

Do you still have the factory svt snorkle where its supposed to be? Its still a good source of cool air for the SRI.

Also with all that stuff directly laying on the charger i think you should generally relocate/reroute most of that stuff so the heat doesnt cause it to fail. I know that my cars performance nose dived when it had a relatively small vac leak.

You wanted me to post my intake here, I'm not sure what you meant about a heat shield though since I've never had one.

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It'll be getting switched back to this basic setup soon for winter,

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Discussion starter · #56 ·
I wish I could send the blower off somewhere to get a P&P but I don't have another car that will let me keep the fofo down that long. So hopefully I can find somewhere locally that get me in and out rather quickly. It would be awesome if I could do it myself. But that would look like a remedial chimp did it.
 
Try to find a used blower. :)
 
From Stiegemeier:

Porting only: $395.00
Porting with Front drive Rebuild $525.00.
Porting with Exterior Show Polish $925.00
Porting with Exterior Show Polish and Front drive rebuild $1025.00
The porting is new and improved.

We do offer an additional $25.00 off if you send in a cashier check or money order payable to Stiegemeier.
Call for your total including S/H.

1-3 day turnaround.(porting) 10+ days for Exterior show polish (if it is your daily driver and need back quickly please let us know when it will arrive so we can get that done and shipped right back to you).

Thanks
636-949-2275
 
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