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I will attempt this swap tomorrow. This forum is a life and money saver. Will update after the swap, if I am able to get the part tomorrow.

EDIT: Just finished mine and it worked like a charm. I spent about 1-1.5 hours for the install. I cant complain because this was the first time I've done anything like this. The clip was a pain to get off the old cylinder.

To get the clip on the new part i used a pair of needle nose plyers to spread the clip open and then it easily slid on.

I wish I could of used Tousley, but I needed something immediate as the locking issue was going down hill quickly and I have to have a functioning car.
 
Last night I came home and my 2000 Ford Focus SE with less than 32,000 miles on it would not turn off.

I could take the key out and the car would stay running. I could drive it with the key on the passenger seat. No matter what I tried, the key would not turn toward me, only away from me.

It ran all night long until this morning when I could see it well enough to disconnect the battery to shut it down.

I called AAA and they said they are not mechanics and there is nothing they can do. They gave me a locksmith's number and he said it's something Ford will have to fix because of a chip in the ignition.

I called Ford and even they were baffled. They said to bring it in and they'd see "what's going on in there". $$$$ I'm sure.

I am figuring I need a new ingnition but if anyone has other ideas. My dad is a mechanic on the East coast and he suggested a new key but that didn't work.

Does 3 years/36,000 miles cover me if I am only at less than 32K miles? or should I try this method?

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm a typical girl who knows nothing about cars but has been trying to learn when things come up. I'd really like to take care of this on my own and learn something than have my credit card burn up at Ford.
 
prncsnyc said:
Last night I came home and my 2000 Ford Focus SE with less than 32,000 miles on it would not turn off.

I could take the key out and the car would stay running. I could drive it with the key on the passenger seat. No matter what I tried, the key would not turn toward me, only away from me.

It ran all night long until this morning when I could see it well enough to disconnect the battery to shut it down.

I called AAA and they said they are not mechanics and there is nothing they can do. They gave me a locksmith's number and he said it's something Ford will have to fix because of a chip in the ignition.

I called Ford and even they were baffled. They said to bring it in and they'd see "what's going on in there". $$$$ I'm sure.

I am figuring I need a new ingnition but if anyone has other ideas. My dad is a mechanic on the East coast and he suggested a new key but that didn't work.

Does 3 years/36,000 miles cover me if I am only at less than 32K miles? or should I try this method?

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm a typical girl who knows nothing about cars but has been trying to learn when things come up. I'd really like to take care of this on my own and learn something than have my credit card burn up at Ford.
Your warranty is 3 years OR 36,000 miles...whichever comes first! Since you have a 2000, it's well beyond 3 years that it's been in service. So, unfortunately you aren't covered under warranty :(

You don't have to take it back to Ford...it's up to you where you have your repair done. Although taking it back to Ford is more expensive, it'd be the only way IF (and only if) Ford decides later on to warranty or recall the part. An independent shop will tend to be cheaper.

In any case, you'll need to budget an hour's labour for diagnosis. That will probably be standard fare. At this stage, it could be the lock cylinder. Or, maybe it's something entirely different. No matter who you take it to, make sure you have an estimate first, and be aware of what you authorize in terms of repairs.
 
GapBoyPCS said:
Your warranty is 3 years OR 36,000 miles...whichever comes first! Since you have a 2000, it's well beyond 3 years that it's been in service. So, unfortunately you aren't covered under warranty :(

You don't have to take it back to Ford...it's up to you where you have your repair done. Although taking it back to Ford is more expensive, it'd be the only way IF (and only if) Ford decides later on to warranty or recall the part. An independent shop will tend to be cheaper.

In any case, you'll need to budget an hour's labour for diagnosis. That will probably be standard fare. At this stage, it could be the lock cylinder. Or, maybe it's something entirely different. No matter who you take it to, make sure you have an estimate first, and be aware of what you authorize in terms of repairs.
Ugh. I guess it's going to sit in the driveway for a long time. :( Thanks for the reply.
 
Try tousley ford. there's a section on the forum where you can post and ask him questions. He can get you parts for at near cost.
There is also b16sir over on focusfanatics that does this too. They both ship parts out very quickly, and work in Ford parts deptartments.
 
fordblue03 said:
Try tousley ford. there's a section on the forum where you can post and ask him questions. He can get you parts for at near cost.
There is also b16sir over on focusfanatics that does this too. They both ship parts out very quickly, and work in Ford parts deptartments.
That is my next move, I just wanted to try and find someone in so cal so I'd get it faster. Thanks!
 
I have had that problem ... about 2 months ago ... car not turning off and all.

Open the Hood and disconnect the Negative Battery terminal ... then wait for about 15-30mins ... lets the charge out of the circuits.

Then do the tutorial here. What you are going to have to do it is take the Horn and Airbag out. It's in the way.

Because the button they pressed on the tutorial is stuck ... that's why you can't turn it off. So you will need as much leverage as you need.

Oh and before you start all that ... make sure you get a new Cylinder ... you will need it. Steve is great he will hook you up real well.

Good luck
 
Discussion starter · #111 ·
When I took my cylinder out, I just tuned the wheel 90 degrees to the right so that I could use the larger opening in the steering wheel. That seemed to work. I'd try that before you pulled the airbag out. (not that it's hard or anything)
 
tukanisvt said:
I have had that problem ... about 2 months ago ... car not turning off and all.

Open the Hood and disconnect the Negative Battery terminal ... then wait for about 15-30mins ... lets the charge out of the circuits.

Then do the tutorial here. What you are going to have to do it is take the Horn and Airbag out. It's in the way.

Because the button they pressed on the tutorial is stuck ... that's why you can't turn it off. So you will need as much leverage as you need.

Oh and before you start all that ... make sure you get a new Cylinder ... you will need it. Steve is great he will hook you up real well.

Good luck
Thanks for the reply.

The battery is already dead from when I disconnected in order to get the car to stop running.

My boyfriend (who is pretty damn strong) and I tried our best to remove the ignition cylinder buy following the tutorial on this site but it won't budge no matter how hard we depress the small hole or how hard we whack on the key while it's in the cylinder.

So the car is stuck in accessories mode. It takes a charge but loses it a few minutes after the boost battery is disconnected.

The key moves in and out freely. It's not stuck, but the cylinder is stuck in accessories mode and drains tha battery a few minutes after it is disconnected from the charging car.

:(

j20000 said:
When I took my cylinder out, I just tuned the wheel 90 degrees to the right so that I could use the larger opening in the steering wheel. That seemed to work. I'd try that before you pulled the airbag out. (not that it's hard or anything)

That is what we did but we still could not get the cylinder out. :(
 
Nice little writeup you got here Justin! I would try yanking the steering wheel left and right very hard while turning the key very hard if that doesnt work you need a new cylinder. Good luck with that I still dunno if I fixed mine. I had the cylinder problem a long ass time ago and my key was stuck but wouldnt go in all the way so I could turn it. I put alot of WD 40 in that biotch and hit it many times as hard as I could seriously so bad I knew I was gonna break something but I already thought it was broke and I was pissed so I was takin my anger out....haha! So I kept hitting it I finally got it in all the way then I was like yay its gonna work now tried to turn it wouldnt turn but then yanked the steering wheel to the left then the right and it worked! Now I havent had it get stuck again and it turns and has worked fine since that so you guys think I fixed it by just doing that its been quite a few years since that happened! But I know how frustrating this all is with this stuff so I hope you get your car fixed!

-Ashley
 
prncsnyc said:
Thanks for the reply.
My boyfriend (who is pretty damn strong) and I tried our best to remove the ignition cylinder buy following the tutorial on this site but it won't budge no matter how hard we depress the small hole or how hard we whack on the key while it's in the cylinder.
So the car is stuck in accessories mode. It takes a charge but loses it a few minutes after the boost battery is disconnected.
The key moves in and out freely. It's not stuck, but the cylinder is stuck in accessories mode and drains tha battery a few minutes after it is disconnected from the charging car.

:(

That is what we did but we still could not get the cylinder out. :(
My wife and I had done the same thing ... and a few friends ... it wouldn't come out. There is a Thick Metal Clip keeping the cylinder in the on/Acc position. It is stuck. You need to leave it in the on/Acc position (Like it is) no key in there. Have some good Pliers and Grasp the Cylinder. With one person Pushing the Stinking little button and one person Pulling the ignition. You might also want to try to GENTLY Pry it out with a screwdriver. It will make a few scratches (I did to mine) but it will eventually come out. Good Luck
 
^^ She said the key is stuck in the "On" Position. So she doesn't need to drill it from here. Only drill if the key is stuck in the "Off" Position.

It is a PITA to get out because of that freakin metal piece at the other end of the lock cylinder ... but it will come out with some more force of the Pliers.

-Raymond-
 
Discussion starter · #117 ·
if the key is stuck in the ON position, it would be that much easier to get the cylinder out. That would put that "button" that you have to push in the right location.
 
^^ Correct ^^

AND if working properly would just let the cylinder come out ... but in her case it isn't that simple. That is why I explained what happened. Because this happened to me EXACTLY. I need to take pics of my old cylinder to show you peeps what I am talking about and to help prncsnyc with the problem.
 
Drilling the button is cake, and if she is stuck in the on position then even better, but I had to do this.
Different situation:
I just don't get why everyone likes to drill along the keyhole. Especially when the button is easier and faster.

Sorry for the mixup.
 
Discussion starter · #120 ·
Tukanisvt, I think I know what you're talking about. The black ring that is on the end of the cylinder....right? I got one of those stuck once when I was changing someones cylinder. It was a BITCH to get out of there...it took about 2 hrs.
 
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