Obviously I am referring to the dohc Zetec version not the v6. It appears to be a direct swap. The intake manifold is not embossed with 1.8/2.0 like the early style focus manifolds, but resembles the one piece style. Any tried the swap? IAC location issues? Linkage issues? Fuel rail hold downs? Will it work even with some modification? They appear to come with a large TB stock as well, seems like a super deal if it will work.
Liquid_02_ZX3
I couldn't tell ya whether it would work or not but my thoughts are if it was worth doing it would have probably been a very popular swap by now. Probably the effort of swapping wouldn't be worth the hassle vs. the early 00 intake manifold even if the other manifold netted a few more horses.
Your missing some vacuum ports up near the throttle body. Maybe 2, max. You could get a split air line fitting and run two into one vacuum port and it would probably run fine.
Otherwise, thats almost exactly like the E200 manifold. I have an Early 2000 manifold and it makes a good, noticeable difference. Very glad I did it.
Otherwise, thats almost exactly like the E200 manifold. I have an Early 2000 manifold and it makes a good, noticeable difference. Very glad I did it.
The early 2000 model year zetec intake manifold did flow more. There are flow results on here somewhere. Search "intake manifold" in zetec performance and the turbo forum and it should come up.
The manifold DOES flow better than all other factory zetec manifolds. The runners are a little bigger and its made of a one piece design. Where as the later models are two piece design and are more restrictive due to that.
The manifold DOES flow better than all other factory zetec manifolds. The runners are a little bigger and its made of a one piece design. Where as the later models are two piece design and are more restrictive due to that.
You'll also have to adapt that top vacuum line, on the e2k it's just a large straight nipple, where in the picture it looks like a hose trap, like the one for the brake booster.
The plastic that intake made of may prove very problematic if you wish to tap threads into it. Plastic has no strength at all when reduced to the thickness that threads would entail. Something threaded into made holes will simply pull threads right out with no tightening up at all. Please don't ask me how I know.........
The Contour intake mani is a heap of crap. If you run it without the external plenum, your throttle response will take a dump... Stick with the Focus unit.
I was using the Contour Zetec IM. The only issue I had run into is the IAC valve on the Focus has a connector that goes straight up whereas the IAC on the Contour has a 90 degree at the end of it. Without the Contour IAC it puts the wires at a funky bend and RIGHT next to the head.
I had an IAC issue and wasn't sure if it was related to this IM or not (did an engine swap and put the IM on at that time) so I swapped back to the stocker but I have to believe that the smoothed runners have to work better than the crushed/stamped pieces. I got some brass fittings and tapped the manifold with a regular tap, and used some plastic welder (epoxy) on the threads to hold it in for extra assurance. I also ported the manifold where it meets the head (and I suggest putting some epoxy on the top of the injector bumps too, because it gets really thin there if you port the bumps down).
If nothing else it's worth a shot, it's cheap!
I had an IAC issue and wasn't sure if it was related to this IM or not (did an engine swap and put the IM on at that time) so I swapped back to the stocker but I have to believe that the smoothed runners have to work better than the crushed/stamped pieces. I got some brass fittings and tapped the manifold with a regular tap, and used some plastic welder (epoxy) on the threads to hold it in for extra assurance. I also ported the manifold where it meets the head (and I suggest putting some epoxy on the top of the injector bumps too, because it gets really thin there if you port the bumps down).
If nothing else it's worth a shot, it's cheap!
He may be talking about the resonator portion of airbox. Contour even without the odd resonator has a pretty good size airbox on top. Focus can have or have not resonator. Mine is gone (removed) as it vibrated enough on valve cover top to wear half way through it. I can't tell any difference other than intake noise has changed. The manifold can't make that much difference as horsepower rating of the two engines is exactly the same. If you tap that plastic, look at the threads close, they fray very easy, no strength there. Epoxy will work for a while but that's a crutch. I ended up drilling hole clean for fitting with a nut on the backside, bulletproof.
I had 15psi through this manifold at one point and the threads were fine. The plastic welder and an appropriately tapped thread near the other barbs (where the plastic is thicker) is perfectly acceptable.
There is a black box that is supposed to sit on top of that manifold. Without it, your car will be very loud, and it will take you 10 minutes of throttle mashing to get anywhere. Throttle response absolutely takes a crap with the removal of this piece. Here is what it looks like on a Contour...Liquid_02_ZX3 said:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=31697&highlight=Zetec+intake
Orange how many psi exactly are you running and how many hp are you running with it? Do you think it's a bottleneck in the system?
Uh, plastic welder will only join pieces of plastic, if you're talking about true plastic weld. And then only the correct type of plastic, there are about 50 different types. For instance, polyethylene, used on lots of these parts, is virtually ungluable, at least until 3M can out with their super expensive special glue for it. If the fitting is metal, you haven't done anything, metal is inert to the welder. A fitting screwed into a hole with no give has WAY more strength than 15 PSI in that small localized area.
...If it has WAY more strength then 15psi, then why does it matter if it isn't really strong in the whole sense of the word--most foci owners will never see (never mind go above) 25psi and if that won't cause the joint to fail then there's no good reason why the plastic welder would be ineffective. The brass I attached the plastic welder on to is apparently plastic brass because the epoxy WILL NOT COME OFF.
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