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mab351 said:
Yes the FRP sensor IS tied into positive pressure. What I said was the sensor/software is incapable of reading positive pressure.
Now I'm really confused. :eek: :lol:
I know the PCM never sees the manifold pressure directly, since there's no MAP sensor on the Focus. But doesn't the returnless fuel system keep the rail pressure rising 1:1 with the manifold pressure in order to keep a steady pressure drop across the injectors?

I've always been really curious about this, since the stock FRP sensor wasn't necessarily designed to work with (or even tolerate) positive manifold pressure. But the experience of other boosted Focus owners always made it appear that the returnless fuel system could be relied upon to automatically maintain a steady pressure drop across the injectors - as long as the fuel pump was up to the task, of course.

It seems to me that, as long as the FRP sensor doesn't balk at seeing positive manifold pressure, the tune should compensate for a better-flowing, lower-psi setup. :dunno:

I'm not trying to be annoying - I'm just trying to learn all that I can. :)
 
So Joe what you're saying is that you have little to no experience calibrating the stock ECU... You wanna say tuning is tuning.... thats fine, but until you dig into the Focus ECU, then I don't think you really have any idea.
 
thekrux said:
focuslacy not sure. all i know is that on ff he said he was a substitute shop class teacher for some community college. fontana or rubidoux maybe. :dunno:
Good one...LOL

They have substitute shop class teachers at Fontana Community College? :lol:

Sounds like a great job. :D I gotta go put in my application over there. I could be like "Mr. Bircham" from KROQ.
 
I cant believe how everyone is wrong here:rolleyes:
The answer to your problem here is......

you have the wrong air in your tires!

Sorry, just had to do it. But, given that everything is correct on the car, it just may be a variance between dynos. I dont know enough about the stock pcm, but when a manufacturer sells a kit to the whole US and other countries, their tuning has to accomodate an extremely wide variation of conditions, so I can safetly assume that the tuning is going to sway more to the conservative side. Now, add in the variance of aftermarket products, headers, exhausts, etc. I would expect dyno figures to change. I'd say, being within 10 horsepower difference is pretty good for an "out of the box" tune. If you want to maximize your tune, you should go to a reputable shop that can do it for you.
 
fastraxturbo said:
I cant believe how everyone is wrong here:rolleyes:
The answer to your problem here is......

you have the wrong air in your tires!

Sorry, just had to do it. But, given that everything is correct on the car, it just may be a variance between dynos. I dont know enough about the stock pcm, but when a manufacturer sells a kit to the whole US and other countries, their tuning has to accomodate an extremely wide variation of conditions, so I can safetly assume that the tuning is going to sway more to the conservative side. Now, add in the variance of aftermarket products, headers, exhausts, etc. I would expect dyno figures to change. I'd say, being within 10 horsepower difference is pretty good for an "out of the box" tune. If you want to maximize your tune, you should go to a reputable shop that can do it for you.
Isn't HKS coming out with a nitrogen tire inflation kit? :lol:

Aside from that...amen...looks fat to me, but like I said, I think it's just a tuning thing. :party:
 
thekrux said:
oh my bad i thought you had said you were a substitute auto shop teacher for a community college out in the 909 area code. was i far off?
I'm not a substitute and I'm not in the 909. :D

I did a dyno and tuning class over the summer term at RCC and I'm doing it again for winter from what I hear. They don't do it all the time because of the noise.

I'm doing one of the Ford classes for spring semester (brakes/suspension and climate control).
 
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