1. What led you to make said purchase?
2. What brand and size?
3. What mods do you have?
4. How did it work?
5. What the MAF worth the money?
6. Would you do it again? Please explain in detail.
So let's hear it, consumers and vendors, everyone.
at first, I bought a Cobra MAF... there was talk you could get a 70mm Cobra MAF, I bought into it, and bought a 2002 cobra MAF == 90mm Lightning MAF. It was HUGE!.. the boys at the shop were able to fab it to fit, minus the flexhose, and with the filter hanging precariously lower in the car.
I installed it into my vortech supercharged focus, inputed the values in the SCT package, and started the car. It would not idle at all below 1000RPM.. below 1000 RPM, the car would pulse, flying up to 1200RPM, and down to 750 to attempt idle, but then nearly stall, and pulse back up.
Rinse and repeat. weather there was turbulence from the Bypass valve, or the fact that a focus doesn't pull enough air above the minimum A/D count (adjustable) to get a steady reading of air at idle, and making things very difficult. You could work around this, but considering the lack of resolution of a MAF rated for 60lbs/min of air on a car running 30 lbs-min of air... well, it was silly (in retrospect). So the stock MAF went in, the stock MAF value file went into the SCT software and flashed.
The car started, ran beautifully up to the MAF's supported 160HP (5200RPM redline)..enough to drive the car until a new MAF can be found.
So I ordered a 65mm pro-M... .it would slap onto the supercharger inlet's flex hose like the stock one, bolt nearly directly on (but at 1" longer, makes the fit a little tight), and the vortech airfilter was waaaay larger than the inlet diameter... nothing a few laps of electrical tape couldn't fix tho. Oh, and the sample tube and electronics made nowhere near a tight seal with the main tube, which I figure equates to the crazy error deviations they log on the flow sheet.
So I sealed it up with some liquid gasket, and was able to make a tune with the 9 point graph, using the actual measurements, and not the error-corrected ones, and on the 1st start, my air/fuel was nearly dead on.
Until yesterday.... in 30C heat, the car ran dandy coming out of my cool underground garage, but as I climbed some of the hills, and the car warmed up (sun beating down on my twilight blue car), the car got to a point where it had trouble idling, stuttered on throttle tip-in, and then she wouldn't idle. Stall.. start up, it would run a few seconds, but as the RPM dropped to it's stock idle point, it bogged, and stalled..pressing on the gas would keep it alive a bit longer, but it would eventually choke.. ok time to tow it back home.
Back home, and after the tow truck left, it was cool enough to start the car, and get it into the underground garage. The way I see it, my tune was alright, but I botched the low end below the idle point at 20C... from the fuel smell, I would say that I set the airflow too high for the given low-end A/D counts, and the car thought it was getting more air than it was.. flooding the engine.
I now have a wideband O2 sensor on order to help fix these niggling problems, because there is a good possibility I'll need it come winter to tune the upper ranges.
the lessons I've learned boil down to:
The Stock MAFs
1) Stock MAFs rule.. they have known flow rates, and tested value tables
2) If you buy a stock one, get the closest you can to your projected HP goals. Each MAF has at least a 10% margin over what the car it's built for is capable of (ie, a stock focus MAF is good to 160HP, and SVT good to about 210 HP). Go too large, and you risk losing much needed resolution
3) other stock MAFs will require fabrication to fit. But chose between tuning, or fabbing, fabbing is probably a slightly easier way to go
aftermaket MAFs
1) you can get them in the size and injector calibration you wish ... Pro Flow doesn't only make 70mm MAFs
2) you can avoid fabbing
3) it's possible to make a very near tune with their 9 values
4) but you will need to tune regardless, and you may miss points you'll need when the weather changes, so make sure you own some datalogging software and a wideband O2 and don't be surprised when it goes weird on you.
5) Aftermarket MAFs aren't all built equal.. do a quick once over to make sure.
If I wasn't tired of spending money on MAFs that don't work, I would go with the stock ford MAFs... fabbing sucks, but without the proper tools, tuning sucks worse, and takes longer... and for $250, the aftermarket MAFs are absolute letdowns in quality, looking like the recalibrated stock MAFs built from parts matching that they really are.