[NeilM]

hey everyone, just looking for some input and some answers on my parts list for my upcoming build.
this build is for my daily driver, because i spun a bearing.
here is the parts list

so i have a few questions as this is my first engine build

1. am i going to need larger valves with theses cams? or will the stock work?
2. will i need further machining for cam fitment? will i need to machine the buckets as well?
3. is a 42lb injector too big or too small?
4. when ordering the rod bearings and main bearings there is three options, standard, .026mm,and .25mm. i'm assuming these mean oversized, problem is, i spun a bearing and that means the crank is going to have be machined to a smaller diameter.. am i mistaken? are the undersized?will these bearings fit? or should i just wait till i get it machined and see what the machine shop says?
5. what do you think i'm missing?

Thanks for your help
Neil

 

[teamDFL]

1. Need? No. But more flow really cannot hurt.
2. Yes. You will almost certainly need valve buckets. Problem is, you won't know which ones until you have the cams.
3. 42s are overkill for N/A power.
4. Have the crank inspected and then see what the machinist says. That will tell you which bearings you need. Alternately, there are probably a dozen cranks that have nearly zero wear on them waiting for you at a junkyard. The stock crank doesn't really wear much unless it is damaged.
5. A reason to spend money on high quality parts like this for a daily. Seriously, massive overkill. Now, if you just want to do it, go on. But this is a pretty serious parts list.

 

[NeilM]

i know this is overkill, but i want a fun daily driver/sleeper that won't spin another bearing or fail for any other reason.

injector wise, should i just stick with stock or would something like 30lb be more suited for this build?
and where would i find suitable buckets? can i just machine the stock ones?

Thanks
Neil

 

[cjmartinyzx3]

I would not go with stock injectors. If you are going to build the engine with new bearings and such are you doing rods and pistons? If so are you gonna keep them stock or get something like eagle rods and your choice of pistons? We need a bit more info to help with what your plan is. I suppose if you are just doing cams with some valve work then stock injectors would be fine.

In my build i am using some 36 lb injectors. still overkill but you dont want to be maxing out the injectors. I have eagle rods and supertech high compression pistons.

I would talk to whomever is going to be building the engine and see what they recommend for parts as far as bearings go. I didnt do that the first time and just bought some std bearings and other parts without talking to my builder and now im doing it all over again.

 

[G-forces]

All good advice so far.

30lbs is plenty for what you listed, but if you ever want to go further, you might be safer going with 36lbs... if you do things like valves/head work, a 70mm MAF housing (don't really want a TB larger than the MAF) and a good scavenging exhaust, like SVT header/hi-flow or ORP and something like a 2.5in FSW stealth. And don't forget a high octane tune... ties it all together.

 

[Funktacular]

Like others said, 30# would probably be fine, but 36# likely wouldn't hurt. Only suggestion I can make is maybe a more agressive cam. I'm pretty partial to the comp 3's on NA zetecs. Nice and lopey but completely streetable. Also, just port the stock TB, no real need for the 65mm.

 

[NeilM]

the parts list is there with everything i plan on doing cjmartinyzx3 let me know if you can't see it, ill type it out

The car already has the fswerks long tube race header and stealth exhaust, as well as an underdrive pulley.
The only reason i want the throttle body is because my racecar has it and i like the throttle response, i was looking at an upgraded maf but wasn't sure about it, thanks for the info on that.

also i just got this head pressure tested, resurfaced and did a valve grind, because i thought, hey lets try the head before we rule it a spun bearing..
that being said, if i do go with the stage 3 cams, would i have to get my head machined again to fit the larger lobes or anything? i am definitely going to do a bowl blend and port/polish so maybe an intake is in the works, but i can't find any aftermarket ones

also for the record i'm building this engine myself with the help of my dad, just getting all machining and some advice from local machine shop

thanks,
Neil

 

[cjmartinyzx3]

Well talk to the machinist and ask if he has to grind the crank and what not and what bearings he says you will need.

I can see the list but didnt read it fullly, just kinda glanced at it lol. With the comp cams (all grinds) they are a .381 lift which is fine for stock springs. Comp did it on purpose to not have to change springs.

Also i may add that i think that the general population says a stock coil and some aftermarket wires are the best option for the engine. Just throwing it out there.

 

[NeilM]

Also i may add that i think that the general population says a stock coil and some aftermarket wires are the best option for the engine. Just throwing it out there.

why is that?

thanks for the info on the cams i may go stage 3 then.

Neil

 

[cjmartinyzx3]

Just seems that people have had the best luck with them. There have been some guys that are boosted and have tried the stock coil vs the aftermarkets like the screaming demon and msd and have had problems with the aftermarket being less powerful then the stock. Its your engine and your money. you can do a search on them and probably find more answers.

 

[CharlesWA]

I've got a set of 4 new in the box Ford Racing 30 lb/hr flow matched injectors that'll fit a Zetec without any adaptors that I'll make you a screaming deal on. PM if interested.

I ran on the stock Ford coil for 180k+ miles and never had any issues with it. I did switch it out for the Massive kit with the MSD coil and new wires and it's been fine as well.

 

[G-forces]

I've got a set of 4 new in the box Ford Racing 30 lb/hr flow matched injectors ...

This is nice, ready to go.

What CR are your pistons? Stage 2 will be plenty for you if they are around 10.5:1... for best results, don't go with stage 3 unless you are well over 11:1.

 

[teamDFL]

Sounds like you are doing this build as much for the fun of the build as the end result. Good on you. I think focusing only on the destination rather than enjoying the journey jobs you of a lot of fun.

IMO, 30s will be fine for just about any N/A build. And as G-forces indicates, the more aggressive the cam, the more aggressive you can be with your compression ratio.

 

[NeilM]

Yeah I was planning on doing 11.1 compression, would that be ok for stage 3 cams? or should I just stick with stage 2,

I'm 19 and I love working on my own cars, so I am all about the journey, and learning more about building my creations!
"Built not bought"

Thanks
Neil

 

[teamDFL]

Stage 3 cams and 11:1 compression will require closer attention to detail for the tune and the entire assembly. Plus, while the engine will have more top end, unless you do something about the factory intake manifold, that will be wasted. For a street engine, stage 2 is probably all you want.

 

[NeilM]

i guess I'll stick with stage 2 for now, I mean I can always upgrade in the future.
intake wise I was looking at top speeds high flow intake, but what additional pieces do I need for it to fit?

Thanks,
Neil

 

[teamDFL]

You can run the stock intake manifold with Stage 2 cams. It won't be optimal, but it will work. Porting will help, particularly the #1 runner which gets pinched down.

 

[Funktacular]

for the TS manifold you need the lower plenum from an SVT mani.

 

[NeilM]

Change of plans ladies, rebuilding it with brand new stock internals, set of cams and cam gears, and a turbis... there is just no way i can go from turbo race car back to N/A... and it's just so much more cost effective

 

[84278]

As long as the motor is out and apart, I think you would be doing yourself a big favor to at least get better rods and pistons in there if your power goals are near 300whp. Some have had motors live a long time with stock internals nearing that level, many have broken parts before getting there.

Either way, good luck!