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The dealer would most likely just prep the surface i.e. remove the rust, primer it, and then do a usual repaint.

You would probably have to remove the chrome strip to prep the surface right, which requires you to remove all the plastic trim on the inside.

Rubbing is one issue. The other issue is you have two types of metal in contact. People have tried to put foam material in between the strip and hatch. That has produced mixed results. The other option is to build the strip out via washers or grind the strip down so there's a greater gap between it and the body.

With a replacement plastic strip, you might be able to order the right one from the dealer pre-painted. Otherwise, I'd suggest wrecking yards, or possibly eBay.
 
im having this done also and it its covered under the corrosion warrenty
You're lucky.

My dealer wouldn't touch it because the corrosion warranty had to have it perforate the sheetmetal. If it were bumper-to-bumper, it would have been fixed.
 
also, my rear license plate bulbs keep burning out from the water leakage i learn now from Focaljet
One thing that seems to help is coating the metal connection points on the bulb assembly and wire contacts with some dielectric grease. I've found it slows down the corrosion a lot, and I'm not going through as many bulbs.
 
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