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Clutch Pedal Position Sensor

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25K views 42 replies 22 participants last post by  natedog_1959  
#1 ·
After reading about the timing/fuel retard clutch pedal position sensor on the spi forum I had to look into it for my SVT. Low and behold it was there waiting to be removed. After I removed it I could feel the difference in part throttle take-off immediately. Much less throttle dip and smoother shifts. When combined with a rear engine mount, short throw shifter, and removed shift linkage counterweight I don't think shifting in the SVT can get any better. I will update this thread after a few weeks of running without the sensor to give my final opinion. Nate.
 
#3 ·
It is directly beneath the clutch pedal. It is not the black one that is depressed when the clutch is depressed. That one is for the starter. Found that out after I removed it. The one I'm talking about is the red one next to the green brake pedal switch. The red one is depressed until you depress the clutch then it is released. By removing it you are telling the computer the clutch is always released and to send full power. It may be placebo power but I don't think so. I could tell a definite difference. Nate.
 
#4 ·
I have read that the switch I removed is either an ingnition timing and/or fuel trim retarding device. If anyone has any more technical information regarding the switch like what type of signal it sends to the computer and why I would appreciate it. Thanks, Nate.
 
#5 ·
hmm.... very interesting.... keep us updated on how things go. like how it runs on take off, any idle problems? gas milage? and so on.... i might do this if all turns out well.
 
#6 ·
wouldn't the clutch pedal position sensor only have two functions?

1) not allow the car to start unless it's depressed and
2) disengage the cruise control when it's depressed

other than that, how would a clutch position sensor alter engine control?
 
#7 ·
actually there's 2 senors for the clutch pedal. i just went to my car and took a look. 1 is for the starter, and the second is engaged when the clutch pedal is realeased.

i actually went to try and take it off, but the most i could turn it is 20 or 30 degrees, there are 3 other sensors on the mounting bracket, and when i turn it, i can only go 30 degrees at most because the other sensor is blocking it from turning any further. by the way it's the red one for the SVTF right? do i have to take the other ones off first and then take the red one off?
 
#8 ·
You shouldn't have to take the others off. If you press the clutch with one hand the other should rotate clockwise as you are looking at it. There is a tab that holds it in but it doesn't exert much force. As for results, taking off from a stop or a slow roll is greatly improved. Shifting into 2nd, 3rd and 4th at part throttle is much smoother. The car feels much quicker off the line now that I don't have to compensate for the normal bog. Nate.
 
#9 ·
I just thought of something. This is my guess at how this sensor works. When the clutch is out the sensor is depressed and the cruise still works. When you press the clutch the sensor is released. As the sensor is pressed again it takes timing and/or fuel away to act as a sort of ghetto torque management system. What if the sensor is taped down to simulate the clutch always being in the up position. This might trick the computer into still allowing the cruise control to work and keep full power on at all times. Just my random thoughts. Nate.
 
#11 ·
I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Driving around the city of valparaiso doesn't give me much chance to stretch my legs. I will get out and try it but my gut instinct is that it won't work with just the sensor pulled because it thinks the clutch is always depressed and thus kills the cruise. I am going to try taping the sensor in the "pushed in" position and see if I still have the added power and cruise. The only downside of this that I can forsee is having to touch the brake to turn off the cruise instead of being able to use the brake or clutch. Nate.
 
#12 ·
Is your cruise control working at all without the switch?
On the regular Zetec, SPI, and Duratec engines (and I assume this is the same with the SVT Zetec), the cruise control will NOT work with the sensor removed if the plunger on the sensor is out (since the car thinks the clutch pedal is depressed). I suggested what was suggested up above about putting the plunger in the down position (making the car think that the pedal is not ever depressed) with the switch removed for a possible solution for the cruise, but I haven't done it yet and I don't think anyone else has reported back on it yet either.

As it stands, this is going to be a track day only mod for me since I use my cruise control quite a bit in order to curtail my propensity to speed.
 
#13 ·
After some experimenting, the effects of this mod are subtle but noticeable. I am going to tape the plunger down to allow my cruise control to work properly and leave it that way. I figure one less electronic nanny getting in the way of my driving pleasure. Let me know if anyone else has had the same results with this mod. Nate.
 
#14 ·
Interesting....
I popped the switch off before heading home last night.
Something is different, and it's a good something.
It is subtle, but that split second "mega-bog" right at the top of the pedal travel, and just after releasing the clutch...
Is gone!
Upshifts seem to grab much better now as well.
Overall performance is the same, so I'm sure this isn't a power adder.
I'm almost comparing it to how people describe the out of the hole improvement with an aftermarket or modded TB.

Yes, the C/C was moot after pulling the switch, but I fixed that this morning with some electrical tape.
Image

The clutch disengagement (rather, the lack thereof now) of the C/C doesn't bother me at all.
IMHO, it reved up too much before it disengaged anyway, if you were say, downshifting going up a pass in 6th gear.
For the most part I just shut it off, and reset it after shifting anyway.

I'll keep ya tuned.
Probably will leave it off for a few days, then hook it back up and see if I feel any difference.

One reason I might notice it more than some folks, is our 4,000'+ elevation.
Any enhancement, no matter how small, to throttle response, is felt right away in this thin air.
 
#17 ·
I just went out and popped the switch off as well. I can tell you that upshifting is MUCH smoother and direct especially with my a 4 puck clutch. There is no more of that split second bog during part throttle shifting either. I also taped the plunger down and will experiment with the cruise control tonight on the highway.
Image
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#18 ·
Could you get some pics of the sensor so I could try this out?
Here's a better description with pics:
http://www.focaljet.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/2416287152/an/0/page/0#2416287152
My switch was all red, no blue.
WD40, you rock! heh im gonna go try this right now
Image

EDIT: well I tried it out, and it felt SLIGHTY easier to take off from a start and when shifting the revs stayed up and didnt fall as quick. It could be in my head but for a free mod I can't complain
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#21 ·
I've thought about doing this for quite some time, but not necessarily to disable the timing-retard-between-shifts "feature". I always figured disabling the switch would get rid of the annoying throttle hang. For those that have tried it, does it? Does RPM still drop crazy-slow between shifts?

I know the few times I've shifted without disengaging the clutch engine speed drops more like I'd expect. Maybe dumping the switch would fix it? ...or maybe I ought to just pony-up for the ECM tune...
 
#22 ·
I couldn't resist trying such an easy mod. Made shifting MUCH smoother and I'm going to leave it disconnected but taped closed so the CC works normally. I may even get fancy and do the something electrically - switch, etc. I've never had any badly noticable issues with the A/C cycling but I'd say this simple adjustment addresses just about all the other issues mentioned so far. I wonder if the SVT folks ever drove one of these with the switch *connected*? Thanks everone!
 
#23 ·
OK, so what happens when cruising at 70 mph on the interstate with the cruise control engaged and I decide to downshift for a quick pass? Does the engine over-rev during the downshift? If so, this "mod" is potentially destructive. No thanks!
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#24 ·
^^hit the off button on the steering wheel, then reset cruise when done. It takes a lot less effort than the downshift does.
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Actually, I've never even heard of people using the clutch to disengage the cruise, although it makes some sense. Personally I use cruise when I'm "cruising." If I'm in a mood where I'm wanting to downshift to pass b/c I want to get around quickly, I'm probably not using cruise in the first place
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#25 ·
OK, so what happens when cruising at 70 mph on the interstate with the cruise control engaged and I decide to downshift for a quick pass? Does the engine over-rev during the downshift? If so, this "mod" is potentially destructive. No thanks!
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There is a rev limiter which won't let the engine past 7300 rpm via the throttle (cruse or other wise).
 
#26 ·
u guys might end up with DTC:

P0704 - Clutch Pedal Position Switch Malfunction When the clutch pedal is depressed the voltage goes to low. If the PCM does not see this change from high to low the DTC is set. CPP circuit short to PWR
Damaged CPP switch
CPP circuit open in the SIGRTN
Damaged PCM
When depressing the CPP switch the voltage should cycle from 5.0V down.