I'm sure in one way or the other you have heard of the ignition problems the focus has with the ignitions. I keep hearing about "drilling" it out. What exactly does that mean and how is it done? I've checked other forums and unless I am dummer than I think I am, no one has explained what exactly that means. Any help fellow Foci's?
Drilling Ignition
HotFocusOn18s
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I'm sure in one way or the other you have heard of the ignition problems the focus has with the ignitions. I keep hearing about "drilling" it out. What exactly does that mean and how is it done? I've checked other forums and unless I am dummer than I think I am, no one has explained what exactly that means. Any help fellow Foci's?
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It means you literally take a couple drill bits and a big drill and bore into the key cylinder, spraying metal filings and filth all over the inside of your car until you've destroyed enough of the lock cylinder that it is no longer seized and can turn.... because you can't remove the lock cylinder from the column without turning it to the unlocked position.
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after drilling it out? what do I use to turn the cylinder with?
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Exactly... a screw-driver... pliers.. anything. You'll have the entire column apart at that point with all the expensive parts safely tucked away.
...then there is a little release pin that pops it out after rotating.
The dealer has full instructions on doing it.
If you don't have experience with vehicular problem solving and tools... pay somebody else to do it.
...then there is a little release pin that pops it out after rotating.
The dealer has full instructions on doing it.
If you don't have experience with vehicular problem solving and tools... pay somebody else to do it.
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Hey guys. I drilled and drilled and drilled and tried and tried and tried until now all i have is a damn whole. Did I do something wrong or do I need to continue to do something cause im not getting anywhere with the drilling to the cylinder.
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somebody wanna help me with this? I drilling until its like nothing but a whole. did i go to far? is it a such thing as to far? do I need to drill more?
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Do you have the instruction? I think it specificied depth.
I knew I was done when I could remove the little "blocker" that falls into the groove to allow the cylinder to rotate.
I don't know all of the locksmith terminology, but basically there is a little bar that falls into a grove when you insert the proper key, and this is what fails to fall when the lock is broken. When you've drilled far enough, this little bar becomes visible and can be removed... and that's what allows the whole deal to turn.
Use some canned air (and goggles) to clean out the hole regularly so you can see what is going on in there.
I knew I was done when I could remove the little "blocker" that falls into the groove to allow the cylinder to rotate.
I don't know all of the locksmith terminology, but basically there is a little bar that falls into a grove when you insert the proper key, and this is what fails to fall when the lock is broken. When you've drilled far enough, this little bar becomes visible and can be removed... and that's what allows the whole deal to turn.
Use some canned air (and goggles) to clean out the hole regularly so you can see what is going on in there.
Exactly. There is a small rectangluar block of metal that will come free after you drill out enough of the lock. Once that block comes out, you can freely turn the lock. You have to drill in the correct spot though. There are several posts that give instructions on the exact spot to drill.
It took me over 2 hours to drill out enough of a hole to get that little piece of metal out of there.
It took me over 2 hours to drill out enough of a hole to get that little piece of metal out of there.
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The pin I am looking for........ Looking at the cylinder as a soda can inserted with the top in....where is this "pin" located??? EX.... the walls, near the top, what color is this "pin". and the #1 question. CAN I DAMAGE THE CYLINDER BY DRILLING CAUSE I'LL DRILL TIL THE COWS COME HOME IF NEED BE.
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Ok, here's my experience on the matter with some instruction links.
What a fun day that was...
Well, I couldn't get my key to turn in my ignition no matter how hard or persistant I tried so I had to drill it out.
I will tell you that this is no easy job. I broke 3 drill bits and my arms are sore as hell from drilling.
![Image]()
For anyone who runs into an ignition cylinder that will not turn with the key inserted, try this first:
1.
Get a regular non-PATS key made at the lock smith.
2.
Using the regular key in the ignition, tap lightly on the end of the key with a medium size screwdriver handle and try to turn the key as you're tapping. Be persistant. I did this for 30 minutes.
3.
If the key still won't turn, try spraying a little WD-40 or some type of lubricant and try again.
4.
If it still won't turn, call the locksmith or get ready for an enduring experience at some drilling.
I would suggest you get some titanium or HSS(High Speed Steal) drill bits because I had a set of the Black and Decker drill bits and broke 3 of them. Even a large one, which was only one size smaller than the 3/8. The IC is made of some very harded metal and it's gonna take some work to get it drilled out.
*Also, mark the drill bit with some tape 1 inch from the top so you know how far to drill. You don't want to go any further or you'll start going into the steering column. (See picture above for example)
Click here for drilling instructions
Click here for ignition cylinder removal instructions
*It's best to drill a little below the X in the instructions. I drilled at the same point and my drill rode up in to the tumbler area and you get this, a larger hole.
![Image]()
Here's what a properly drilled IC looks like.
![Image]()
Now, you will need to get the IC to turn to the Accessory position for 2 reasons.
1.
To be able to push the little button on the side, the IC needs to be turned to the Accessory position. Mine would not push in if it was in the OFF position or in the RUN position. It had to be in the Accessory position in order for the button to push in.
2.
There is a locking ring a the end of the IC that need to go in to a groove/slot in the steering wheel or the IC will not slide out.
![Image]()
So, if you can't turn the IC to the Accessory position, the IC isn't going to slide out even if you can push the little button on the side.
*I used an allen wrench to push the button. There's no way you are going to get a screwdriver to push the button unless you remove the steering wheel.
The new style IC definitely looks different. Looks more like the 2005 IC. It's got a center piece and looks more like a 2 piece IC whereas the old style IC seems to be a 1 peice.
![Image]()
What a fun day that was...
Well, I couldn't get my key to turn in my ignition no matter how hard or persistant I tried so I had to drill it out.
I will tell you that this is no easy job. I broke 3 drill bits and my arms are sore as hell from drilling.
For anyone who runs into an ignition cylinder that will not turn with the key inserted, try this first:
1.
Get a regular non-PATS key made at the lock smith.
2.
Using the regular key in the ignition, tap lightly on the end of the key with a medium size screwdriver handle and try to turn the key as you're tapping. Be persistant. I did this for 30 minutes.
3.
If the key still won't turn, try spraying a little WD-40 or some type of lubricant and try again.
4.
If it still won't turn, call the locksmith or get ready for an enduring experience at some drilling.
I would suggest you get some titanium or HSS(High Speed Steal) drill bits because I had a set of the Black and Decker drill bits and broke 3 of them. Even a large one, which was only one size smaller than the 3/8. The IC is made of some very harded metal and it's gonna take some work to get it drilled out.
*Also, mark the drill bit with some tape 1 inch from the top so you know how far to drill. You don't want to go any further or you'll start going into the steering column. (See picture above for example)
Click here for drilling instructions
Click here for ignition cylinder removal instructions
*It's best to drill a little below the X in the instructions. I drilled at the same point and my drill rode up in to the tumbler area and you get this, a larger hole.
Here's what a properly drilled IC looks like.
Now, you will need to get the IC to turn to the Accessory position for 2 reasons.
1.
To be able to push the little button on the side, the IC needs to be turned to the Accessory position. Mine would not push in if it was in the OFF position or in the RUN position. It had to be in the Accessory position in order for the button to push in.
2.
There is a locking ring a the end of the IC that need to go in to a groove/slot in the steering wheel or the IC will not slide out.
So, if you can't turn the IC to the Accessory position, the IC isn't going to slide out even if you can push the little button on the side.
*I used an allen wrench to push the button. There's no way you are going to get a screwdriver to push the button unless you remove the steering wheel.
The new style IC definitely looks different. Looks more like the 2005 IC. It's got a center piece and looks more like a 2 piece IC whereas the old style IC seems to be a 1 peice.
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UH OHHHHHHHHH. Mine is at the point now where its just a big azz whole. Am I beyond repair to get it removed without replacing the entire ignition or can i still use this method?
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As long as you didn't drill/penetrate the outer IC shell, you should still be OK.
The key point is that you MUST remove the lock bar so you can turn the IC to push in the pin to remove the IC.
Have you tried inserting a flat head screwdriver to see if the IC will turn ?
The key point is that you MUST remove the lock bar so you can turn the IC to push in the pin to remove the IC.
Have you tried inserting a flat head screwdriver to see if the IC will turn ?
That's what I was talking about too. That damn lockbar (the rectangular piece of dark grey metal) is the key to this whole operation. Once that comes out, you can move on to the next steps.
And you WILL be replacing the whole ignition cylinder (hopefully you've already picked one up from the dealer and had it keyed). The problem is if you drill in to far, you might be replacing some of the steering column parts.
And you WILL be replacing the whole ignition cylinder (hopefully you've already picked one up from the dealer and had it keyed). The problem is if you drill in to far, you might be replacing some of the steering column parts.
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I've drilled mine almost identical to the "big whole" picture posted above. I looked again last night and still have not found that pin. I will check again tonite after work and will post with any additional info. Thank all of you guys that read and responded to my post. I've viewed and posted on other forums and this by far is the best one. Thanks again. Hopefully we can get my damn Focus started so I can get moving again and park my 97 Escort with the broken exhaust til next year some time...LOL
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Have you tried using a telescope magnet inside the drilled out IC to fish out the lockbar ?
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I havent but I will be trying that at around 2pm today as soon as I get off work and head to ACE Hardware to pick one up.
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