You can do it with the head on the block, but i'm not quite sure how.

People have done it though.

 

you can change them while the head is still on but you need some special tools to hook a compressor into the spark plug holes. so that when you remove the spring and retainer the vavle doesn't drop into the cylinder.

 

Yes Millertyme is right

 

most compression kits will come with a fitting that hooks up to the 2 main types of air couplers used by auto shops. that and the thread-in hoses would hold the valve in while you work on the springs/etc.

 

Another cam question. Would it be worth installing stage III cams on a 2.3 engine with stock pistons or 9.7:1 compression or should I stick with stage II cams? This car will be used primarily as a recreational driver as well as occaisional track and autox not a daily driver though.

 

you can't run 3's, safely, on stock pistons due to the increased lift.

You needs pistons with larger valve reliefs.

Crane 2's are plenty big for virtually everyone.

 

Thanks

 

stage 2's aren't overdoing it for just a bolt-on daily driver are they. Or would I be better off with stg 1?

 

Crane 2's are plenty big for virtually everyone.

HA! that makes me virtually noone.

 

stage 2's aren't overdoing it for just a bolt-on daily driver are they. Or would I be better off with stg 1?

For a daily driver that only has bolt on's you will only want stage 1. Stage 2 is when you start working more into the motor. Also I see your from Oregon, drop a post in the Northwest forum and say hi!

 

I have stg2's in my car, there is nothing wrong with having them in a daily driver. It is a little lopey, but it drives fine.

 

If you set the idle at 1k would that completely smooth-out the lope of either stg 1's or 2's?

If not, how high would you have to set the idle to make the lope disappear on stg 2's?

 

wherever you set idle you will be able to hear that it has cams.

Right now my idle is set at about 900, it does vibrate and shake some at idle at a stop.

 

Same as mine, 900 idle, lop lop lop at every stoplight. I also have the pleasure of feeling the idle because there is no padding in my seat. Get the stage 2 and you won't regret it. Just be ready to spend the money for tuning and better springs and retainers.

 

Any word yet on the cam installation instructions? I'm getting impatient on installing these, I got the stage 1's with the SCT tune to go with them.

 

i'm also waiting. i've emailed walter but got no response.

 

I'll bug him again today.

 

thanks aero.

 

You can also put the piston all the way down and stuff a shoe lace down there and then turn the crank to put it at tdc. That method works alot better then it sounds.

 

You can also put the piston all the way down and stuff a shoe lace down there and then turn the crank to put it at tdc. That method works alot better then it sounds.

and youre gonna shove it down there how?

 

You can also put the piston all the way down and stuff a shoe lace down there and then turn the crank to put it at tdc. That method works alot better then it sounds.

and youre gonna shove it down there how?

I don't get it at all - what purpose does the shoe lace serve??? Where does it go???

>8^)
ER

 

You can also put the piston all the way down and stuff a shoe lace down there and then turn the crank to put it at tdc. That method works alot better then it sounds.

and youre gonna shove it down there how?

I don't get it at all - what purpose does the shoe lace serve??? Where does it go???

>8^)
ER

i think he means it will stop the valves from falling down.. but you cant get it down there anyways.. and all 4 cylinders arent at TDC at any point anyways

 

The easier way to hold the valve up is to get a compression check fitting, hook it up to an air compressor, and fill the cyl with compressed air. That's how I did it on my 5.0 when I changed the valve springs.

 

The easier way to hold the valve up is to get a compression check fitting, hook it up to an air compressor, and fill the cyl with compressed air. That's how I did it on my 5.0 when I changed the valve springs.

Exactly, use a compression check fitting/hose and hook it up to compressed air. This will keep the valves closed. You will then need a fixture to mount on top of the head w/ the cam cover off to compress the valve springs. Find out if anyone has made up a fixture that they will let you borrow. Otherwise, you could always just pull the head off.

 

So has anyone herd from Walter yet on the installation instructions for the cams?