Re: I'm sorry if people are sick of this topic! Mazda 3 goodies on 05 zx3
Well... I got the Mazda knuckle.
I'm not sure this modification is for the faint of heart.
Mazda 3 vs SVT Knuckle:
Brake Caliper Hole Spacing: 3 9/16" vs 3 9/16"
Brake Caliper Hole to Hub Center: 3 1/16" vs 3 1/16" (These two are cool, because potentially aftermarket Focus brake kits could still be made to fit. My Wilwood setup has a shared 5/4 lug face, so other than addressing the offset, they should bolt on.
Ball Joint Pin Center to Hub Face: 2 7/8" vs 2 5/8" (This moves the bottom of the knuckle 1/4" farther out toward your fenders, which would add camber, except...)
Steering Arm: 5 5/8" vs 5" (This is kind of bad - slows your steering ratio and increases your turning circle)
If my math is right, that's 10 degrees versus 12 degrees per linear inch of rack travel on center, or a 16.6% loss in steering rate. There is enough meat that you could potentially drill another tapered hole next to the original if you wanted to correct that, though it would no longer be on the flatted area, so you'd need to add a little material.
Strut Center to Hub Face: 6 7/8" versus 6 3/8". (This isn't so hot... it moves the top of the knuckle out 1/2", which reduces camber. Half of that is cancelled out by the ball joint pin center to hub face increase. The net result is a hub face around 1/4-5/16" further out. You could use some very aggressive camber plates at the top to correct this, but at a minimum, you're looking at 1/2" increased track width)
Ball joint bolt center to axle center: 3 7/8" vs 3 3/8". (This is actually good... it is like installing extended ball joints and will put your control arms at a better angle on a lowered car)
Strut bolt to axle center: 4" vs 3 1/4": (This is not good at all. If you use Focus struts, it'll lift the car 3/4", and if you lower it, you're losing 3/4" of travel. You could compensate in a number of different ways: 1) Modify the shock body so it sits 3/4" further into the knuckle. 2) Raise the upper mount at the strut towers 3/4". 3) Install an alternate shortened shock body.
Strut bore: 51.8mm vs 45.5mm (This is maybe okay. 06-11 Foci use 50mm strut bodies, which would probably work, or a Massive Omni-kit could do the trick. This hole closes when the bolt is tightened. I see online that a Mazda strut is 52mm, so you might need to add a little more to the massive Omni-kit if you're going to use a Focus strut. You could also machine a kit with an angled hole to correct camber... I've done that and it works, but we're getting more expensive that way.
Steering tie-rod pin taper: 11.5 to 14.5 vs 12.1 to 14.6 (This are probably the same, just rust and machine tolerances.)
Ball Joint Pin: 17.8mm vs 16.4mm (I forgot the 06-11 ball joint pin size, but it is probably a direct fit)
So... that's where I'm at.