Re: Negative Chamber.

-2.5° of camber is actually fine but if you're worried about it then either the SPC bolts or the arms will get you to where you want to be. The bolts will only have 1° of adjustment whereas the arms have quite a bit more.

I would not suggest buying from either of those links (especially because it's the same link twice ), the same products can be found cheaper by multiple sources including forum sponsors.

 

Ditto what Nick said above.

Bolts for 1* of adjustment:
http://www.fswerks.com/products/fs81310

Arms for -1.5* to +5.0*:
http://www.fswerks.com/collections/...ions/suspension/products/spc-adjustable-rear-control-arm-ford-focus-mazda-volvo

 

Arms for -1.5* to +5.0*:
http://www.fswerks.com/collections/...ions/suspension/products/spc-adjustable-rear-control-arm-ford-focus-mazda-volvo

Or you could shop around and get the SPC arms from Amazon or the identical ones that Raybestos or AC Delco repackage for ~$60 a pair less.

 

Thank you guys, I didn't realize they were the same link ha ha. I wasn't planning on buying those either, looks like it's the wrong year.
I guess I'll be doing some shopping.

 

Okay so here are the numbers from my last alignment check.
LEFT FRONT; Camber: -1.2 Caster: 3.0 Toe: .66
RIGHT FRONT; Camber: -1.6 Caster: 3.0 Toe: -.45
LEFT REAR; Camber: -2.4 Toe: .25
RIGHT REAR; Camber: -2.5 Toe: .20

So what I was thinking was set all toe to 0, fix my front camber close to 0 (maybe leave a little negative).

Here's my question, will I still have unnecessary tire wear if I use the bolts for it's +/- 1 and get my camber to -1.4/-1.5 and set my toe at 0? Or do i really need to go with the arms for a true 0 camber?

 

You don't want 0 camber, the car will roll the tires over excessively when you corner. I'd say your camber is pretty close to ideal for the car as it is, and would really only adjust things to even them out. If you feel you simply must eliminate some camber, I wouldn't take more than half a degree out of the front (especially) or the rear. If you are experiencing odd tire wear, it is due to your toe being out of spec.

 

this seems like an easy fix.
leave the front camber, fix the awful toe to 1/8" max combined toe out.

put the bolts in the rear, adjust to -1.5 camber, put toe to zero.

cost is 30$ for the bolts, your time or $$ for the install, and and alignment.

 

That's kinda what I was leaning towards. Is there a benefit to setting toe out or in just a little, or should I set it to straight 0.

 

And I am getting some pretty aggressive tread wear on the rear tires, but my ford dealership says that the toe is within specs, could it be from so much camber?

 

Toe should be zero in the rear or slight toe in. If the rear bushings are worn you'll have uneven wear and the car's rear will be very loose on uneven roads. Camber doesn't affect tire wear near like toe does.

 

Toe should be zero. Their "spec" wears tires

 

Could my bushings be that worn? It's just an 07 and it's had a very easy life and miles. I assume fixing my toe and camber should take care of everything.

 

Mine were gone after 100k or so, but I'm sure harsh winters didn't help.

 

unfortunately foci are known for killing rear trailing arm and rear lca bushings after a very short span. Bushing slop could definitely explain odd wear in the rear.