it's not the oil it's the filter. you should get the oil tested to be sure there are not problems with the wear in the engine.

 

Normally the filters only last somewhere between 3000-5000 miles. Most people on FF say they chance there filters at the 5000 mile mark and the oil and the second filter at the 10000 mile mark.

 

you are suppose to change it EVERY 3 months or 5000 miles

 

I guess I'm okay with the miles, it's just the time factor. Why do I need to change it if too much time goes by?

 

Well when it comes to full synthetic oils the 3 month 5000 mile rule goes out the window minus the oil filter itself. The filter has to be replaced but the oil does not. Now with partial synthetic or regular conventional oil you have to change it at the 3 month 5000 mile mark.

 

I would love to hear from someone else who has left oil in for that long...

 

I've been running AMSOIL full synthetic for about three years at ~30,000 mile intervals with filter changes and topoffs every 10-12,000 miles. No problems so far...I'm going to be replacing my block with a SVT shortblock next year and I'll be able to tear down my 120,000 mile Zetec block that has had this treatment since about 50,000 miles. But honestly...if not changing the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles was going to do something I think the engine would be showing it by now.

Oh - another side note, for two of those three years I was putting ~30,000 miles per year on the car. One of the bigger issues with extended drain is water retention in the oil, and that happens when the car sits more than it runs.

 

Water retention is a legitimate concern, now that you mention it. I start the truck every weekend, but I usually only drive it once or twice a month. Every few months, I will put a thousand miles on it on a long trip.

The water would be heavier, and would come out first if I were to crack the drain plug, correct? I would probably notice some foaming and/or an increased level too...

 

I've been running AMSOIL full synthetic for about three years at ~30,000 mile intervals with filter changes and topoffs every 10-12,000 miles. No problems so far...I'm going to be replacing my block with a SVT shortblock next year and I'll be able to tear down my 120,000 mile Zetec block that has had this treatment since about 50,000 miles. But honestly...if not changing the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles was going to do something I think the engine would be showing it by now.

Oh - another side note, for two of those three years I was putting ~30,000 miles per year on the car. One of the bigger issues with extended drain is water retention in the oil, and that happens when the car sits more than it runs.

Not likely....there are many instances of engines running well over 100k miles with no oil changes on regular dino oil....just top offs. People underestimate the durability of engines in situations such as these. A tear down should show evidence of damage if there is any, but the only true way to tell is to run the engine until it dies. There is no reason why a well maintained Zetec wouldn't see over 300k on the internals...perhaps your method wouldn't take the car that far.

Either way, I suggest getting a Used Oil Analysis done to determine the condition of the oil after such use. This is advice I would pass on to the original poster, especially using suspect oil such as Royal Purple.

10k miles and one year is not that much of a stretch for a quality synthetic (or even dino) oil, but not knowing the condition of the engine or your driving habits, it would be a safe bet to have the oil tested by a used oil analysis company, such as Blackstone Labs. Recommendations on the bottle mean nothing, as they can not account for every situation a vehicle may encounter. Even Amsoil, the most optimistic with oil use claims, recommend an oil analysis be done to determine what is safe for your application. They even supply the kit on their website.


Bottom line is, no single suggest use can be applied to all applications and vehicles. I have read numerous oil reports on www.bobistheoilguy.com that show instances where top end oils fail early, and cheap oils go the distance. In this particular instance, you will not destroy your engine.....but you may not be doing it any favours either. Royal Purple makes good products, but there have been several issues with certain oil weights. Their racing oils are top notch....its the street oils that have had some problems. But like I said, doesn't apply to all circumstances.

 

Water retention is a legitimate concern, now that you mention it. I start the truck every weekend, but I usually only drive it once or twice a month. Every few months, I will put a thousand miles on it on a long trip.

The water would be heavier, and would come out first if I were to crack the drain plug, correct? I would probably notice some foaming and/or an increased level too...

Just drive the car for 30 minutes or so every couple of weeks....getting the oil up to operating temp will burn off any moisture. That said, lots of cars go much longer than a year on the same oil. As long as your PCV system is functioning well, and you occasionally get the car nice and hot, you most likely will not have a problem.

 

Normally the filters only last somewhere between 3000-5000 miles. Most people on FF say they chance there filters at the 5000 mile mark and the oil and the second filter at the 10000 mile mark.

Not necessarily true. Oil filters do not just fail, nor do they only last 3k miles. In fact, there has been few studies on the acceptable service life of oil filters, so there is no evidence to support such a claim, and that goes both ways. All I can offer up is first hand observations of mine, and others, that have cut open oil filters after usages up wards of 10k miles. In all instances, the filter was fine internally, with no pleat damage and all components functioning as necessary. These observations do not apply to Fram filters, I wouldn't trust them for a trip around the block, much less an oil change interval.

There was an amateur study done examining the pressure drop of new vs. old filters. This study was an attempt to asses filter "load-up", and to see how long is too long, and when filters start bypassing oil through their bypass valve (assuming the application requires one). This study showed that even the most restrictive filter available was flowing fine with a ton of mileage on it...forget the exact number, but it was somewhere around 15k. The filter was cut open, and everything was intact....just in case you were wondering.

Several oil filter brands now advertise extended usage, such as M1 and Amsoil. M1 claims their filters are good for 15k miles, and Amsoil claims over 20k with its EA0 line of oil filters. They wouldn't be doing this if they didn't think it possible.

On a side note, the M1 oil filters are very close siblings with the K&N oil filters, as both are made by Champion Labs. They both have similar filtering media, and are indentical in internal construction.

 

Bottom line is, no single suggest use can be applied to all applications and vehicles.

Definitely, I've run my car for the past 70,000 miles on three actual oil changes and it doesn't seem any worse for the wear. Not to say that it'll work out for anyone else, but its helpful to the topic to hear something other than "OMG THE MANUAL SAYS 5,000 MILE CHANGES ONLY!!!!111"

At any rate, my days of lazy car maintenance are coming to an end - when the SVT block goes in its going in as part of a turbo build, and I'll have no choice but to change the oil on regular intervals.

 

Pzev stated: "On a side note, the M1 oil filters are very close siblings with the K&N oil filters, as both are made by Champion Labs. They both have similar filtering media, and are indentical in internal construction.[/QUOTE]"

That is incorrect. The K&n has different, higher quality media. It flows more than the M1 filter.

 

Pzev stated: "On a side note, the M1 oil filters are very close siblings with the K&N oil filters, as both are made by Champion Labs. They both have similar filtering media, and are indentical in internal construction.

"

That is incorrect. The K&n has different, higher quality media. It flows more than the M1 filter.[/quote]


lol, notice how I said "similar" filtering media....not identical. Additionally, my statement still stands, as they are identical in construction....only differing in filtering media and the outside appearance.
Finally, your observations are incorrect....as each filter has differant goals. The K&N sacrifices filtering efficiency in the name of more flow, while the M1 follows a path of finer particle filtration.


The devil is in the details.....please read my entire post before responding.

 

So which do I want? More filtration or more flow? Mine is just a commuter car.

 

Without a doubt, more flow!

 

lol, more filtration. You have to understand that compared to the rest of your engine, the filter is the least restrictive element BY FAR...we'll, not the oil pan

You are not getting anymore flow with a K&N than you are an M1....as the filters can easily flow all the required oil in any and all daily driving situations. Now, if you were running a large V8 on a track with some 50+ weight racing oil....then I might change my recommendation. But still, you wouldn't want to use a single filter in such a situation anyways...most likely two or three in parallel.

Additionally, filter media composition isn't the end of the story. Surface area, media thickness, all have impacts on how a filter is going to perform. While the filtering media in filter Z may be more restrictive, this could be corrected by adding more of it, increasing surface area.


But all this pointless, as filters change per each application. We don't know for sure how the K&N and M1 filters stack up in our application, for all we know they could be the same filter. Nobody has done a study on our filters, and I wouldn't trust add materials.

My recommendation is for the Motorcraft filter. Inexpensive, effective, and is a quality unit.

 

Well this is just my opinion but I have been using Royal Purple and the Purolator Pure One filters for a few years now and they seem to be doing a fine job. I change my oil and replace my filter every 5k miles or so.
This last round (I have 50,000 miles on my '05 ZX3) I saw a new model of Purolator filter and gave it a try.

The sharp new box:

And the filter installed:

Now some of you sharp eyed readers may notice that the filter looks a little longer then yours and doesn’t seem to be the correct part number.
But you would only be partially correct.
While this isn't the recommended Focus part it is an equivalent part for the Ford Racing filter. If you look in the Ford Racing Catalog you will find they sell a filter for the Focus that is a little longer then the stock one. More filter material will equate to a higher flow rate without sacrificing filtering quality. This Purolator filter (PL20195) is 99.9% efficient, has a Silicone anti-drainback vale and gasket. It's coated with what feels like sandpaper so you get a good grip when it's covered with oil.

Just a thought for those who want it all.

 

There are two instances in my car's life where that filter would have been punctured or even ripped off due contact with items under the car.
While I can appreciate the increased oil capacity (slightly), I would hesitate to use a longer filter if I couldn't be absolutely certain I wouldn't hit something with it.

Other than that, the filter is very similar to the standard version, minus size and reduced burst strength. I attribute the difference in burst strength to the larger size...shouldn't matter much.

Oh yeah, anti-drain back valves do not apply to our application, as the filter is aiming up in a vertical fashion....the oil will never drain out of it.


Additionally, you are assuming they use the same filter material in each application. The smaller filter may flow the same or better, and this could be achieved by using a filter media with tighter pleats increasing surface area, or reducing filtering ability (negative change).
Either way, oil pumps are positive displacment...so your getting the same flow through the filter regardless. Its true, the oil pump can go into bypass....but I doubt that would happen under normal driving unless you are wailing on a car with thick oil and a cold engine...like 20w-50 or something. Additionally, the oil filter can go into bypass if the pressure drop across the media is greater than 8psi (our application). Nobody really knows how often filters go into bypass...some say all the time, others say hardly ever.
Assuming the same filter media is used, and the larger filter actually contains more filtering material and surface area, then yes...the larger filter would be desirable in applications where there is a chance it could go into bypass....such as road racing etc. That said, you won't hit a curb on the racetrack....so there is no risk with that longer filter. Daily driving is a different story.


That aside, larger oil filters are usually a good thing (assuming filter media is the same or similar). However, in applications such as ours where a longer filter can be damaged by road debris (has happened numerous times on duratecs), perhaps using an oil take off plate and a remote filter mount is a safer way to use a larger filter.

I don't mean to discourage you or anyone else. I applaud your resourcefulness in finding that alternative application...I just want to explain the risks with that filter. If you were to damage it on a curb, and not realize, you will be buying a new engine....as Ford will not cover warranty work when that filter is used if it proved to be the cause of the failure.


P.S.
There were some instances of that gold textured crap getting down inside the filter. I would inspect any filter before buying it, and look for gold flecks inside and around the threads etc.

 

Pezv: While I appreciate you concerns I've used these filters (Purolator Pure One 20195) for several years now without any issues.

This model of filter dose not extend as far as the bottom of the engine so if one were to "damage it on a curb" one would most likely take out the bottom of the engine as there is nothing to stop the impact before the engine.

I would hope we would take enough care of our cars not to run over curbs though.

As with any modification you do to your car there is some risk and any engine related parts should be carefully inspected prior to and during installation.

 

Thats cool, and I may look at that filter next time around. When the duratec was still new, there were several issues with Ford dealerships using the larger filter...in a few cases, they payed for new engines. I am sure many quick lube places made the same mistake.

While careful drivers such as yourself will never likely hit a curb at just the right spot....think of all the A to B drivers who wouldn't care, etc. That said, I most places now stock the correct filter size...so it isn't much of a concern anymore.


I am debating using an oil take of plate, and running a dual filter mount with some FL1A sized filters (same threads, bypass, but much larger). That would increase oil capacity by about two quarts, and reduce the chances of the filters going into bypass (run in parallel).
Not that motivatd however...so I most likely won't get around too it.

 

Pzev. For years to a PROFESSIONAL i have been sending my oil for analysis. Through their recommendations they have made me aware of many things and one is that while both are important, a filters flow is more important. The ability of the filter to stay out of bypass is most important. Through my questioning of M1 versus K&n i have been told that the K&n has much better flow charachteristics. And the professionals tell me that flow is more important to better engine oiling and longevity. I'll take a lubricant analysis professionals word over anything i hear or read on the internet.

 

Who told you the K&N has better flow characteristics? What test did they run? What application was the tested filter specified for?

By your logic, a simple screen would yield the best performance, as it offers the highest flow rate. History has told us that such applications are prone to short engine life, and I doubt anyone would run a course screen as their only source of oil filtration.
The actual truth is that oiling systems that incorporate a bypass filter...rated to roughly 3 Microns or smaller, yield the highest oil and engine life. Numerous "professionals" can attest to this fact....so can countless UOA's and engine tear downs.

So why is it systems that actually reduce oil flow through an engine yield the greatest performance in regards to oil cleanliness and engine life?
Its because large particle contaminants roughly 5-20 microns in size are the primary cause of engine wear, in addition to cold starts.
So while oil flow is critical for an engine, if your pumping sandpaper through your block your not going to make it very far.


Additionally, without doing an experiment to determine the pressure drop across various competing filters, and when our cars go into bypass, this argument is moot.
The internal design of K&N filters are Identical to M1....I have taken them apart (used of course), and so have countless others. The only difference lies in the filtering media chosen and quantity of it, and I can assure you the difference between them is small.



Either way, say high to your professional for me. I'll make sure to send a letter when I roll past 300k miles using flow killing super restrictive filters.

 

Your dramatic answer is making me chuckle this saturday morning. Thank you. I have never stated that filtering of a M1 is restrictive and deadly to a motor. Thanks again for the laugh by the way. I have 350,000 miles on a 96 v8 explorer so he has seen a motor with a little bit of mileage. 300 grand run on fram filters so i guess that debunks the fram is garbage argument. What kills a motor is not changing the oil and improper maintainance. In 5000 miles even the lowest quality oil and filter combination will run for an extremely long time in a very well maintained engine. It's not the oil and it's not the filter that matters. It's maintainance. To say that my comments that one filter flows better than another and turning it into me saying the other kills motors is amusing.

 

You guys are funny.

I'm going to run that big, honkin Purolator. Hope I can fit an extra 1/2 quart in there. Plus, gold is cool.