One: Find another shop. They are gouging you simply because "It's an SVT." The alt and starter aren't any more or less accessible than on any other car.

Sounds like your car is getting flooded on occasion. If it doesn't fire after one try, floor the gas pedal all the way to the carpet and try starting again. That will trigger the fuel cut-out and should start.

Hopefully that helps. Sounds like you've got some other issues. I'd find a different shop, and get your timing done. If it's original it needs done ASAP.

 

I'd find a different shop, and get your timing done. If it's original it needs done ASAP.

What's the ballpark I should expect to pay to have this done?

Thanks.

 

My SVT has the occasional horrible grind on start as well. Replacing the clutch switch made no difference on my car. I have a new starter, but haven't had a chance/location to replace it yet.

Something to check is if the ECU changes the tune at all if the clutch is in. Since they bypassed the switch, as far as the ECU is concerned, the clutch is always depressed.

 

Something to check is if the ECU changes the tune at all if the clutch is in. Since they bypassed the switch, as far as the ECU is concerned, the clutch is always depressed.

All of that went right over my head.

 

The clutch safety switches do go bad and will cause a no-start issue, I had the same problem. Bypassing it will allow the car to be started without pressing the clutch in. I would personally replace the switch.

 

I don't think the problem is a no-start. Seems like its a momentary break in the power to the starter. It's the same grinding you might hear if you tried to start the car twice in short succession. Or turned the key while the car is running. Might be something in the ignition or starter relay?

 

For what it's worth, this issue did go away for me when the dealership replaced the starter.

 

Timing? $400 parts and labor.

 

im having same issue with my SVT. ive tested all the relays in the system. crazy part is...

im getting power to the start 12v always hot and 10volts to the grey wire which is the wire to the starter. i get power at both spots for the start but the starter doesnt work sometimes...but the starter will jump with a screwdriver and it passed 3 bench tests....

basiclly the car is telling the starter to crank and the start isnt doing it. but it will jump with a screwdriver...

and this is the 3rd starter in the car.

 

You have a wiring issue then, Ford's repair would be to replace the entire wire if the ends can't be spliced 8 inches out and the problem resolved.
If i'm not mistaken, ALL the wires for the starter come in the Battery Cable Set (~$45 from Tousley)

 

i did a voltage drop down test and there was zero drop down on any of the 2 power cables and the ground cable....

and i retested the grey wire and i get 12v now. at both terminals on the harness at the starter.

Advanced auto wouldnt take the starter back because it would "pass" their bench tester still but the starter was making weird noises and the soilinoid was hot to the touch last night when i was testing things. you could feel the soilinoid click with your hands on the body of it but the starter wouldnt do anything.

after testing the whole wired system and it passing it textbook step by step with a multimeter and the starter getting hot to the touch and making noises im certin its the starter and not the car. this would have been the SECOND starter on warrenty from advanced technically if they had given me the new starter today it would be the THIRD STARTER from them in the car....prolly cuz they use cheap ass parts....

 

Yeah, it shouldn't get hot unless you're holding it and cranking over and over, that's a bad starter.
Tell them that and see, talk to someone different. Don't they have a warranty on it?
I tell them when they wont swap parts that they lose my continued business and that usually gets them singing a different tune.

 

It's absolutely great to hear you did a voltage drop test (it's about the best electrical test available but also the least used and understood). But I can't really blame Advance Auto either since even you appear to have proven there may not be anything wrong with the starter since "...the starter will jump with a screwdriver and it passed 3 bench tests..."

Please don't take this wrong since I'm not familiar with your level of electrical expertise, but are you certain you're performing the voltage drop test correctly? Getting zero voltage drop always makes me wonder since you'll typically see at least a couple of tenths drop on even the best of circuits.

 

But jumping the starter with a screw driver you're supplying a HUGE voltage spike, that may not be provided by wiring, and doesn't mean the solenoid isn't toast on the starter. Your basically bypassing the Solenoid and providing a direct path for current to flow. (If I have to use a screw driver, I usually call the solenoid bad and replace the starter.)

Also, even in a perfect world, sometimes things that SHOULD work, don't.

 

it was the starter. bought a new one from autozone and it cranked right up.

 

Time to advance auto for a refund!!! ... And pissing match, how fun!

 

i tried. because the starter would "pass" their bench test they wont take it back. they pretty much scammed me 150$....

 

Either those aftermarket starters are complete garbage or you have some other underlying issue with your car Andy.

 

well not really sure whats up cuz the wiring passes...lol