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European Rear Bumper Install

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16K views 69 replies 29 participants last post by  Mile30  
#1 ·
Yes, this is a repost of information from thread a couple months back, but I realized that it didn't have its own thread for reference, and a couple folks here on [FJ] have been picking my brain the last few days about doing this.

Thanks to PnkRckr121 for reminding me that this information existed, as I had completely forgotten I had written it... I'm a tard :rolleyes:

European Rear Bumper Install Guide

*Please note that the basic steps shown here should work for ANY European style bumper, regardless of whether it is '98 spec, RS or 2002/ST170*

Also, for safety reason, I HIGHLY recomend that if you are undertaking this project you have the European Spec rear rebar AND crashfoam in addition to the bumper cover itself. Leaving out any of those parts can lead to injury and serious damage to your vehicle if (God forbid) you end up in a rear end collision.

Reference:
If you'll be installing the European style lighting along with the new bumper, see one of the two guides located here:
Pre-'02 Focus Taillight Wiring
'02+ Focus Taillight Wiring

Tools You Will Need:
Breaker bar
Metric Socket Set
Heavy Hammer (Thor's might do nicely)
Hacksaw or Sawzall
4 new bolts with nuts and lock-washers
Blood, Sweat & Tears
Euro Spec Rear Bumper
Euro Spec Rear Rebar
Euro Spec Rear Crashfoam

Step 1
Rip apart the back of your car. With a breaker bar and good enough socket set you can unbolt everything.
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Step 2
Check for fitting on the euro rebar and mark for holes to drill. First you'll need to either cut off, or bend backwards (like I did) the little metal lips that were at the sides of the NA Spec rebar. You don't have to bend it back much, as the euro rebar ALMOST snugs right in between them.
What I found to be the best placement for the new euro rebar was to set it just above the two bottom bolts that had once held the NA Spec rebar, centered between the two metal lips you bent back. This should place the ends of the euro rebar so that they cover the big sqaure frame holes.
I only drilled new holes in two places because that third hole would be awkwardly placed against the subframe. The bottom holes are easy enough as they go right through the peice of metal that held the NA Spec rebar (make sure to use some lock washers on the bolts you put through). The top holes were a little tricky as they go through a thicker piece of metal into the trunk area and emerge just above the trunk floor. You may have to remove the side carpetting to push the bolts through these holes. Again, use some lock washers on the inside so you don't have to hold the one end of the bolt while you tighten it.
And, as shown in the second picture, you will need to hacksaw off a little corner of the metal on the passenger side so that it allows the new bumper cover to sit properly.
All the bolts that held the NA Spec rebar can be left where they are and do not effect the fitment of the new foam or bumper cover. You can just push the foam onto the top bolts and it will bury them inside itself.
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Step 3
You can hang the euro bumper foam onto two of the existing bolts. There is the little metal lip, just below the hatch door, which the panel retainers for the top of the bumper go into. If you remove the nuts at either end, you can slip the hanger on both sides of the euro foam onto the bolts and then put the nuts back on. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be done, but it looks like it was meant to fit there.
Word of warning though, the bumper cover is REALLY tight across the foam there and I went and shaved about 1/2 an inch off the whole front of the foam to allow a better fit.
Ignore the pencils holding the ends of my bumper foam, lol, it was damaged in shipping and I epoxied those make-shift braces in on both side to hold it where it needs to be.
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Step 4
Make sure to slip the bumper cover on for a test fit before bolting anything in place. I got a little too anxious and bolted stuff up every time I tried fitting it and ended up having one of the bolts behind the rear wheel break off of the bumper plastic on me. Granted, it wasn't secured on there very well in the first place, but I still almost crapped myself when I though I had ruined the bumper cover. All fixed with epoxy now and I'm pretty sure more secure then it was originally :thumbup:
If the holes in the top of the bumper cover don't line up well with the holes for the retainers, take the cover off and shave a little more off the top edge of the foam.
But when everything is in the right place, the result is beauty :D
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Step 5
Wire up your lights to make sure they all work properly
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Then take it back apart and send it off to paint!

Step 6
Enjoy!
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#4 ·
No slip you rock! And come Monday I will be rockin too!!!
 
#6 ·
ZtsFucus said:
very nice write up. im rockin the RS collection rear. loving it. please tell me you cut your exhaust haha
LOL, yes. I took those pics the day I got it installed and I hadn't clipped it yet, but its nice and flush with the bumper now :thumbup:
 
#10 ·
The crash foam you can get from BAT Inc.. I got it with the kit, but they didn't have the rebar. I found a guy on ebay who can get them I paid 85 shipped for mine. Let me know if you need the name.
 
#11 ·
I can't wait until I take this step with Rattletrap :D

-Brian
 
#12 ·
2focusd said:
I can't wait until I take this step with Rattletrap :D

-Brian
Are you leaving the black strips?

Thats my fav part of the car Slipster...

Sometimes the best mods are not what you do, but what you leave along.:thumbup:
 
#13 ·
I haven't even come close to purchasing the bumpers yet, so I have no clue what I'm doing yet :lol: Knowing me though I'll either go '98 front and rear or R/S Collections front and rear. Both of which will need SVT or R/S sideskirts which ought to be fun to find :lol:

-Brian
 
#14 ·
Hey Slip... not sure if this is just a trick of the camera, but the bumper seems to hang down a bit to the right of the tailpipe.

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#15 ·
Dude I didn't have to shave any foam off it lined up perfectly. I notched the metal piece that surround the euro rebar though, that way it didn't interfere with the foam. BTW did you do anything for the bottom of the bumper like attach it anywhere? I saw that I had some hole to mount it but couldn't find a place.
 
#16 ·
PnkRckr121 said:
Dude I didn't have to shave any foam off it lined up perfectly. I notched the metal piece that surround the euro rebar though, that way it didn't interfere with the foam. BTW did you do anything for the bottom of the bumper like attach it anywhere? I saw that I had some hole to mount it but couldn't find a place.
I saw that as well. While I thought about making a little bracket for it and attach it to the underside of the car somewhere, I decided it was secure enough without it so I haven't bothered.

-Slip
 
#17 ·
o2_designs said:
Are you leaving the black strips?

Thats my fav part of the car Slipster...

Sometimes the best mods are not what you do, but what you leave along.:thumbup:
Thanks o2!

After having everyone initially bitch at me for wanting to leave my rub strips alone its good to have vindication like that :D
 
#18 ·
The black strips are very BMW-esc. I like very minimal stuff on my car and like everything to flow. On your car they look great because, as you stated, they flow with the rest of the trim. I should be wiring everything up today if my LEDs came in. Thanks again Slipster

Tom
 
#19 ·
PnkRckr121 said:
The black strips are very BMW-esc. I like very minimal stuff on my car and like everything to flow. On your car they look great because, as you stated, they flow with the rest of the trim. I should be wiring everything up today if my LEDs came in. Thanks again Slipster

Tom
Don't mention it bro. The booty on your car is going to look dead sexy when its all done :thumbup:

If you need anything else you know where to find me!

-Slip
 
#20 ·
What's up with the bottom of the bumper then? Is something hitting it?
 
#21 ·
CaysE said:
What's up with the bottom of the bumper then? Is something hitting it?
Not that I could tell.

I can fit my hand behind that corner by the exhaust (all the way up to the rebar) so its not hitting anything. And you don't notice anything standing behind the car. Might just be the angle I took that pic from. The bumper does have a slight curve toward the rear fog where the exhaust cut-out is, so it might just be that that little portion is closer to the camera than the left side of the cut-out :dunno:
 
#24 ·
The rebar is only bolted on. Due to the placement, some of the bolts may be a little tough to get loose, but there is no cutting of it necessary.