Yes, this is a repost of information from thread a couple months back, but I realized that it didn't have its own thread for reference, and a couple folks here on [FJ] have been picking my brain the last few days about doing this.
Thanks to PnkRckr121 for reminding me that this information existed, as I had completely forgotten I had written it... I'm a tard
European Rear Bumper Install Guide
*Please note that the basic steps shown here should work for ANY European style bumper, regardless of whether it is '98 spec, RS or 2002/ST170*
Also, for safety reason, I HIGHLY recomend that if you are undertaking this project you have the European Spec rear rebar AND crashfoam in addition to the bumper cover itself. Leaving out any of those parts can lead to injury and serious damage to your vehicle if (God forbid) you end up in a rear end collision.
Reference:
If you'll be installing the European style lighting along with the new bumper, see one of the two guides located here:
Pre-'02 Focus Taillight Wiring
'02+ Focus Taillight Wiring
Tools You Will Need:
Breaker bar
Metric Socket Set
Heavy Hammer (Thor's might do nicely)
Hacksaw or Sawzall
4 new bolts with nuts and lock-washers
Blood, Sweat & Tears
Euro Spec Rear Bumper
Euro Spec Rear Rebar
Euro Spec Rear Crashfoam
Step 1
Rip apart the back of your car. With a breaker bar and good enough socket set you can unbolt everything.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Step 2
Check for fitting on the euro rebar and mark for holes to drill. First you'll need to either cut off, or bend backwards (like I did) the little metal lips that were at the sides of the NA Spec rebar. You don't have to bend it back much, as the euro rebar ALMOST snugs right in between them.
What I found to be the best placement for the new euro rebar was to set it just above the two bottom bolts that had once held the NA Spec rebar, centered between the two metal lips you bent back. This should place the ends of the euro rebar so that they cover the big sqaure frame holes.
I only drilled new holes in two places because that third hole would be awkwardly placed against the subframe. The bottom holes are easy enough as they go right through the peice of metal that held the NA Spec rebar (make sure to use some lock washers on the bolts you put through). The top holes were a little tricky as they go through a thicker piece of metal into the trunk area and emerge just above the trunk floor. You may have to remove the side carpetting to push the bolts through these holes. Again, use some lock washers on the inside so you don't have to hold the one end of the bolt while you tighten it.
And, as shown in the second picture, you will need to hacksaw off a little corner of the metal on the passenger side so that it allows the new bumper cover to sit properly.
All the bolts that held the NA Spec rebar can be left where they are and do not effect the fitment of the new foam or bumper cover. You can just push the foam onto the top bolts and it will bury them inside itself.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Step 3
You can hang the euro bumper foam onto two of the existing bolts. There is the little metal lip, just below the hatch door, which the panel retainers for the top of the bumper go into. If you remove the nuts at either end, you can slip the hanger on both sides of the euro foam onto the bolts and then put the nuts back on. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be done, but it looks like it was meant to fit there.
Word of warning though, the bumper cover is REALLY tight across the foam there and I went and shaved about 1/2 an inch off the whole front of the foam to allow a better fit.
Ignore the pencils holding the ends of my bumper foam, lol, it was damaged in shipping and I epoxied those make-shift braces in on both side to hold it where it needs to be.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Step 4
Make sure to slip the bumper cover on for a test fit before bolting anything in place. I got a little too anxious and bolted stuff up every time I tried fitting it and ended up having one of the bolts behind the rear wheel break off of the bumper plastic on me. Granted, it wasn't secured on there very well in the first place, but I still almost crapped myself when I though I had ruined the bumper cover. All fixed with epoxy now and I'm pretty sure more secure then it was originally :thumbup:
If the holes in the top of the bumper cover don't line up well with the holes for the retainers, take the cover off and shave a little more off the top edge of the foam.
But when everything is in the right place, the result is beauty
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Step 5
Wire up your lights to make sure they all work properly
![Image]()
![Image]()
Then take it back apart and send it off to paint!
Step 6
Enjoy!
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Thanks to PnkRckr121 for reminding me that this information existed, as I had completely forgotten I had written it... I'm a tard
European Rear Bumper Install Guide
*Please note that the basic steps shown here should work for ANY European style bumper, regardless of whether it is '98 spec, RS or 2002/ST170*
Also, for safety reason, I HIGHLY recomend that if you are undertaking this project you have the European Spec rear rebar AND crashfoam in addition to the bumper cover itself. Leaving out any of those parts can lead to injury and serious damage to your vehicle if (God forbid) you end up in a rear end collision.
Reference:
If you'll be installing the European style lighting along with the new bumper, see one of the two guides located here:
Pre-'02 Focus Taillight Wiring
'02+ Focus Taillight Wiring
Tools You Will Need:
Breaker bar
Metric Socket Set
Heavy Hammer (Thor's might do nicely)
Hacksaw or Sawzall
4 new bolts with nuts and lock-washers
Blood, Sweat & Tears
Euro Spec Rear Bumper
Euro Spec Rear Rebar
Euro Spec Rear Crashfoam
Step 1
Rip apart the back of your car. With a breaker bar and good enough socket set you can unbolt everything.
Step 2
Check for fitting on the euro rebar and mark for holes to drill. First you'll need to either cut off, or bend backwards (like I did) the little metal lips that were at the sides of the NA Spec rebar. You don't have to bend it back much, as the euro rebar ALMOST snugs right in between them.
What I found to be the best placement for the new euro rebar was to set it just above the two bottom bolts that had once held the NA Spec rebar, centered between the two metal lips you bent back. This should place the ends of the euro rebar so that they cover the big sqaure frame holes.
I only drilled new holes in two places because that third hole would be awkwardly placed against the subframe. The bottom holes are easy enough as they go right through the peice of metal that held the NA Spec rebar (make sure to use some lock washers on the bolts you put through). The top holes were a little tricky as they go through a thicker piece of metal into the trunk area and emerge just above the trunk floor. You may have to remove the side carpetting to push the bolts through these holes. Again, use some lock washers on the inside so you don't have to hold the one end of the bolt while you tighten it.
And, as shown in the second picture, you will need to hacksaw off a little corner of the metal on the passenger side so that it allows the new bumper cover to sit properly.
All the bolts that held the NA Spec rebar can be left where they are and do not effect the fitment of the new foam or bumper cover. You can just push the foam onto the top bolts and it will bury them inside itself.
Step 3
You can hang the euro bumper foam onto two of the existing bolts. There is the little metal lip, just below the hatch door, which the panel retainers for the top of the bumper go into. If you remove the nuts at either end, you can slip the hanger on both sides of the euro foam onto the bolts and then put the nuts back on. Not sure if this is how it is supposed to be done, but it looks like it was meant to fit there.
Word of warning though, the bumper cover is REALLY tight across the foam there and I went and shaved about 1/2 an inch off the whole front of the foam to allow a better fit.
Ignore the pencils holding the ends of my bumper foam, lol, it was damaged in shipping and I epoxied those make-shift braces in on both side to hold it where it needs to be.
Step 4
Make sure to slip the bumper cover on for a test fit before bolting anything in place. I got a little too anxious and bolted stuff up every time I tried fitting it and ended up having one of the bolts behind the rear wheel break off of the bumper plastic on me. Granted, it wasn't secured on there very well in the first place, but I still almost crapped myself when I though I had ruined the bumper cover. All fixed with epoxy now and I'm pretty sure more secure then it was originally :thumbup:
If the holes in the top of the bumper cover don't line up well with the holes for the retainers, take the cover off and shave a little more off the top edge of the foam.
But when everything is in the right place, the result is beauty
Step 5
Wire up your lights to make sure they all work properly
Then take it back apart and send it off to paint!
Step 6
Enjoy!
